Cuisine & Wine Asia — May-June 2017

(Dana P.) #1

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佳 肴 美 酒 4 5


“Eastern Interior”: seared Canadian pork
tenderloin & pork belly, with red bean
velouté, puffed corn, pickled Bale’quapple
berries & apricot fry bread paired with
2012 Pont des Arts Saint-Émilion Grand
Cru, Saint-Émilion, France
Once again, excellent flavour interaction in this
pairing. The smokiness in the wine was an adequate
match for that in the tenderloin, while the soft red
fruit character matched well with its savouriness.
The soft acidity of the wine also helped to cut
through some of the oiliness of the belly, while
still maintaining its unctuous richness. In addition,
this pairing also possess an excellent flavour
interaction, with the generous, soft mouthfeel of
the wine matching well with both the tenderness
of the tenderloin, as well as the softness of the
belly. A classic pairing that is not as surprising as
the last one, but excellent nonetheless. YS

“Canadian Shield”: squash & ricotta
gnocchi with corn soubise, charred green
beans, shaved pemmican & toasted
hazelnut paired with 2013 Los Vascos
Grande Reserve, Colchagua Valley, Chile
At first glance, I thought the wine was very much
too strong for such a bright dish, and indeed it
would be, had it not been for the addition of the
pemmican. The pemmican and toasted hazelnuts
served to deepen the otherwise brightly flavoured
dish, allowing it to match the deep, dark fruit
character of the wine. The corn soubise also did
reveal itself in the finish, bringing forth a pleasant
wave of mild sweetness that I found most enjoyable,
albeit unexpected. Texturally, the wine was a
good match for the gnocchi, supporting its soft
creaminess with silky, supple tannins. An excellent
pairing, which was thoroughly unexpected, and it
definitely shows the intelligence and creativity in
which this pairing was devised.
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