Cuisine & Wine Asia — May-June 2017

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he chef managing the challenge of coping with
the demanding prep work, three menus and the
diners is the passionate and knowledgeable 31-year-
old chef Michael Suyanto (pictured). Starting off as
an ‘accidental chef’, he studied engineering before
veering off that course and jumping onto the path
of a kitchen life. “I honestly thought I wouldn’t
last long, but I was fortunate to have met the
right people and they mentored me. Chef Francois
Mermilliod guided me and Chef Christophe Megel
gave me direction.” With a solid background in
French techniques and flavours, Chef Suyanto took
this chance to open a restaurant that was different
from normal hotel concepts. “I was out of the hotel
line for so long – almost ten years. I’d say that while
restaurant kitchens and buffet kitchens are similar,
different skill sets are required. For a buffet concept,
you prepare everything ahead of time and wait for
the diners to eat. With this kind of restaurant, you
cook to order, which is my forte and was why I bit
the bait and came on board.”
This is the second restaurant that Chef Suyanto
had the privilege of being part of the opening team
after Absinthe. “Opening a new place is always a
challenge. There’s no existing kitchen system, you
have to train the staff, and source for ingredients.”
He opines further on the concept, “Fine dining is
no longer what people are looking for. The chefs
of fine-dining restaurants themselves are opening
restaurants offering comfort food. Here, we smoke
our own fish. We do rilletes and whatever we can
do in-house. We strive to work the best we can
within our limitations.”
Joel Ong, 30, is the charming and informative assistant
food and beverage manager who works with Chef
Suyanto to provide a complete dining experience for
all of Porta’s diners. He’s able to recommend the right
beverage for Chef Suyanto’s creations. A favourite
pairing of both Ong and Chef Suyanto is the salmon
trout salad priced at SGD$18. Ong proposes two off-
dry, French drinks that have the 'flavours of summer':
a cocktail called Uncertain Glory, SGD$18 and a
SGD$70 per botle 2015 François Cazin Cheverny Rosé
Loire, Touraine. The SGD$18 spicy Spanish octopus
is paired with 2012 Castell d'Age Tempranillo Crianza
Penedès at SGD$74 per botle. “This easy-going and
savoury 2014 Domaine du Trapadis Côtes du Rhône
Rouge Rhône – Grenache adds a welcomed kick to the
SGD$26 Iberico secreto dish,” shares Ong. Varlhona
chocolate is used to make a lovely warm chocolate
fondant served with Mövenpick vanilla ice cream. Ong
recommends SGD $24 cocktail called Footsteps In The
Dark made with Glenfiddich 15 Years with spices to
cut through the rich sweetness of the chocolate and
ice cream. It’s worthy to note that Porta offers a retail
concept where the same quality ingredients that Chef
Suyanto uses in the menu are sold. Guests are able
to buy them, refer to the recipes online (www.porta.
com.sg) by Chef Suyanto himself and feed their loved
ones amazing food at home. DD
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We want people to
enjoy the food and
to elevate the
flavours with the
right drink.
Joel Ong
What we want to do here, at Porta
is to offer delicious European food
that is value for money.
Michael Suyanto
Recipes refer to page 80
Varlhona chocolate fondant
octopus with garlic
mayonnaise oil, harissa &
patatas bravas

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