MINI GUIDE
Autumn in Bavaria
COMPILED BY LORNA PARKES, WITH CONTRIBUTIONS FROM MARC DI DUCA. PHOTOGRAPHS: WALTER BIBIKOW/AWL IMAGES, CREATIVSTUDIO HEINEMANN/GETTY IMAGES, NAUMENKOPHOTOGRAPHER/500PX, MARTIN SIEPMANN/AWL IMAGES, TRAVELPIXCOLLECTION/AWL IMAGESBavaria essentials The know-how
FURTHER READING
Lonely Planet’s
Munich, Bavaria &
the Black Forest
(US$21.99) is a
detailed guide to
the region, chapters of which
can be downloaded at
lonelyplanet.com (US$4.95).
Nobel Prize–winning
Thomas Mann was a Munich
resident for 40 years; read
Dr Faustus (US$14; Vintage
Classics), an allegory of the
Third Reich’s coming of
power in Germany. For
something less sobering,
Ludwig II by Martha Schad
(US$9; DTV Deutscher
Taschenbuch) is one of the
most readable and compact
biographies of Bavaria’s
most flamboyant monarch.THE BAVARIAN PLATE
Eating in Bavaria is a seasonal affair;
autumn dishes include mushrooms,
pumpkin, game and zwiebelkuchen
(onion tart).
O Bavarians use all parts of the pig.
Look for rippchen (ribs), züngerl
(tongue), schweinshaxe (knuckle)
and wammerl (belly).
O Try Villa Mittermeier in
Rothenburg ob der Tauber for great
food (villamittermeier.de), or
Vinzenzmurr, a butcher and deli with
outlets in Füssen and Munich
(vinzenzmurr.de).
O Bavaria’s flagship sausage is the
veal weisswurst (pictured below). In
eastern Bavaria and Franconia the
smaller, spicy bratwurst rules. In
Nuremberg, Bratwursthäusle is an
inn that sets the standard for sausage
(die-nuernberger-bratwurst.de).
O Kartoffel (potato) is served
as salzkartoffeln (boiled),
bratkartoffeln (fried) or
kartoffelpüree (mashed).
Sauerkraut (pickled cabbage)
is also a common side order.and artworks (hotel-fuessen.de;
Prinz-regentenplatz 1; from
US$156).
Munich’s La Maison is retro and
immaculate in shades of imperial
purple and grey. Its rooms flaunt
heated floors and jet-black
washbasins, and the pillows are
perfectly plumped (hotel-la-
maison.com; Occamstrasse 24;
from US$161).
Burg-Hotel has 17 elegant
rooms built into Rothenburg ob
der Tauber’s walls. There’s a spa,
a cellar with a Steinway piano
and valley views from the breakfast
room (burghotel.eu; Klostergasse
1–3; from US$180).WHERE TO STAY
Although traditional looking
from the outside, Hotel Sonne
in Füssen’s Altstadt offers an
unexpected design-hotel
experience within. Themed rooms
feature swooping bed canopiesTRANSPORT
Singapore Airlines flies direct
from Singapore to Munich but
travellers from Kuala Lumpur
will have to make a stopover in
Singapore first (from US$919;
singaporeair.com). From Munich,
take Lufthansa to get to
Nuremberg (from US$112;
lufthansa.com). The Bavarian
countryside is ideal for
roadtripping; bus travel is also
possible, but services peter out
in the evenings and at weekends.
The Bayern-Ticket (US$25) is a
good deal, offering a day of
unlimited travel on Bavaria’s
regional and local transport
(including suburban trains, trams
and buses).Rooms at Hotel Sonne feature
bold design and rich furnishingsActivities Sights Sleeping). most flam
bage)
der.