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Outdoors in
Northern Ireland
Ancient ruins rise from brooding landscapes
and hiking paths weave through pretty seaside
villages in this activity-rich land.
The notorious
Carrick-a-Rede
Rope Bridge
History
Activities By the coast
ULSTER WAY HIKING
Circuiting all six counties of the
North, as well as Donegal, the
625-mile Ulster Way is Ireland’s
ultimate long-distance walking
trail. It can easily be broken down
into excellent day walks. One of
the best is the 10-mile stretch
between Carrick-a-Rede Rope
Bridge (nationaltrust.org.uk;
US$7.30) and Giant’s Causeway,
though beware muddy clifftop
sections in bad weather.
Every October, vast flocks of up
to 40,000 light-bellied brent
geese arrive at Castle Espie
reserve from Atlantic Canada;
at other times of year it’s a
haven for native geese, ducks
and swans. Landscaped grounds
are dotted with hides, and are a
paradise for fledgling
naturalists, with bird-feeding
sessions. The reserve sits on the
western shore of Strangford
Lough (wwt.org.uk; 78
Ballydrain Rd, Co Down;
10am–5pm, to 5.30pm Sat–Sun
May–Aug; US$9).
In early Christian times, when
overland travel was hard, Lough
Erne was an important highway,
and there are many ancient sites
dotted around its shores. Birdlife
is abundant, fishing is popular
and it’s easy to hire day boats or
canoes to explore the waterways
- the sheltered backwaters of the
Upper Lough are ideal for
beginners and families. Share
Canoe Hire can rent out canoes,
kayaks and gear (sharevillage.org;
canoe hire US$15 per hour).
DERRY
Northern Ireland’s second city has
a great riverside setting, a lively
music scene and lots of history to
absorb. A stroll around the 17th-
century city walls is a must, as is
a tour of the Bogside political
murals. Completed in 1619, the
walls are 8m high and 9m thick,
with a circumference of almost
a mile, and are the only city walls
in Ireland to survive almost intact
(visitderry.com; dawn–dusk; free).
CUSHENDUN
This pretty seaside village is
famous for its Cornish-style
cottages, now owned by the
National Trust. Built between
1912 and 1925, they were
designed by Clough Williams-
Ellis, the architect of Portmeirion
in Wales. The village is also worth
lingering in for its sandy beach,
short walks (outlined on an
information board beside the car
park) and sea cliffs riddled with
impressive caves – a Game of
Thrones filming location.
In the 18th and 19th centuries
thousands of people left Ulster
for a new life across the Atlantic.
Their story is told at one of
Ireland’s best museums, which
features a sprawling outdoor
history park where exhibits are
split into Old World and New
World areas and come alive
through reenactments (nmni.
com/uafp; 2 Mellon Rd,
Castletown; Tue–Sun Sep–Jun,
daily Jul–Aug; US$11).
GIANT’S CAUSEWAY
When you first see it you’ll
understand why the ancients
believed the causeway was not a
natural feature. The vast expanse
of hexagonal stone columns –
a national nature reserve and
Northern Ireland’s only Unesco
World Heritage site – looks for all
the world like the handiwork of
giants (nationaltrust.org.uk;
causeway entry free, car park
and visitor centre US$11).
Gloriously set at the foot of the
Mourne Mountains, the
Victorian seaside resort of
Newcastle has a sculpture-
studded promenade and an
elegant footbridge over the
Shimna River. The surrounding
mountains offer excellent hill
walking and rock climbing; the
Life Adventure Centre in nearby
Castlewellan Forest Park offers
all manner of outdoors activities
(onegreatadventure.com).
Passing Crichton Tower on tiny
Gad Island in Upper Lough Erne
The Pennsylvania Farmhouse at
the Ulster American Folk Park
Some 40,000 basalt columns
make up the Giant’s Causeway
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MINI GUIDE
PORTRUSH
The popular seaside resort of
Portrush (Port Rois) offers good
old-fashioned family fun with
beautiful sandy beaches. It’s
also home to one of Ireland’s
top surfing centres; swells are
highest and water warmest in
September/October. The
friendly Troggs Surf Shop offers
bodyboard/surfboard hire,
wetsuits, surf reports and
advice all year round (troggs.
com; 88 Main St; closed Sun
mornings; two-hour surfing
lesson US$37).
ULSTER AMERICAN
FOLK PARK
NEWCASTLE &
THE MOURNES
CASTLE ESPIE
BIRDWATCHING
CANOEING LOUGH
ERNE