Travel + Leisure Southeast Asia — May 2017

(Marcin) #1

TRAVELANDLEISUREASIA.COM / MAY 2017 107


We stopped under an oak tree reputed to be
well over 600 years old. “I wonder what this
tree has seen since day one,” Adams said.
Consider: it would have been 150 years old when
Queen Elizabeth I ascended the throne, nearly
400 when the American colonies broke free
from Great Britain. Adams shook his head.
“How insignificant am I?”
The land doubles as a buffet, if you know
what to look for. I didn’t, so Adams narrated.
We passed wild watercress, common hogweed
(whose seeds taste of citrus—more orangey
than lemony) and pineapple weed, which
Adams plucked, rubbed between his fingers

a nd held to my nose. It offered a n insta nt
olfactory trip to the tropics. The sorrel we
gathered would go with pig’s-head rillettes.
Blackberries were destined for an arranged
marriage with Cornish cream. “Such
abundance,” Bloomfield said.
Returning to the farmstead, we skirted a
streamside forest. Suddenly, Adams and
Bloomfield unleashed a litany of expletives
more typically heard in the heat of professional
kitchens than the cool of the Cornish shade:
“Holy sh**. Oh my god.”
The object of their awe was in a tree: a
chicken-of-the-woods mushroom the size of a

Traditional
cottages line the
Cornish town
of Boscastle.

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