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bat, g i v i n g a l m s t o
monks. C L O C K W I S E
FROM LEFT: Amantaka
has transformed from a
French hospital to a luxury
a b o d e ; t h e s e c l u d e d
Mekong Spa at Belmond
La Résidence Phou Vao;
enjoy tranquillity by the
central pool at Amantaka
July/August 2017 AsiaSpa
I wake the next morning and stroll around the gardens where red
brick walls try to contain the lush vegetation, dark ponds sprout pink
lotus flowers and soaring bamboo casts shade. In the dark turquoise
pool I accompany the dragonflies dive-bombing the surface of the
water, and after a few lazy laps head to breakfast poolside to eat
Lao’s version of pho (noodle soup) and croissants.
The spa manager discusses the heritage of the dry Lao Traditional
Massage with me, which he shares was developed by novice
monks healing senior monks of their aches and pains. I head to the
secluded Mekong Spa after a digestive pause, treatment villas and
planter chairs overlooking the lotus pond and lap pool. I have a
cup of bael tea beside the reception’s Buddha statue before being
led to the treatment villa. My caring therapist’s massage echoes
techniques I’ve experienced in Thailand but with less stretching and
more gentleness, which releases surprising tears of pent-up fatigue
and emotion. She checks at intervals to see if I’m all right, and by
the end I feel as if a weight has lifted and I could sleep for a week.
http://www.belmond.com
AMANTAKA
From the lofty, leafy Belmond I head (all of five minutes) downtown
to Amantaka and the brand’s signature spacious perfection. The
former French hospital has been beautifully cossetted into a luxury
abode, its high-ceilinged buildings and breezy architecture converted
into beautiful acre-sized suites with private pools, a restaurant and
spa. The signature grey-green of the shutters, doors and furnishings
is beautifully restful, complemented by the monochrome temple
photography by local photographer Hans Georg Berger. The vast,
central pool reflects the tranquillity, coming alive at night with the
glow of hundreds of candles.