NORTHEAST INDIA
GREAT ESCAPE
ON THE ROAD
HOW TO GET THERE
Air India and Jet Airways offer flights
to Guwahati from the Singapore and
Kuala Lumpur, via Indian hub cities
(from £507; jetairways.com). The trip
to Jorhat is longer, with at least two
stops (from £519; jetairways.com).
HOW TO GET AROUND
This trip covers several hundred miles,
so travel times are long. Domestic
flights will cut travel time: the most
useful airports are Guwahati, Jorhat
and Shillong. Once you’re on the
ground, hiring a driver and a small car
or minibus is by far the quickest and
comfiest way to go. Count on paying
around £65 per day including petrol
and tolls; it’s important to make sure
your driver has prior experience of
driving to Nagaland, as well as the
necessary permits, before you travel.
For local journeys, taxis and tuk-tuks
are cheap and available everywhere.
Roads in the more remote areas, such
as the Khasi Hills and Nagaland, are
often poorly maintained; travel times
to these areas can be punishing.
HOW LONG TO SPEND
The itinerary for this trip can just about
be covered in 10 days, although the
long journey time to and from
Nagaland means two weeks would
allow for a more comfortable pace.
And remember to factor in a bit of
extra time for delays – traffic on India’s
main roads is generally awful, and
domestic flights are often delayed.
WHAT TO BUDGET
Budget travellers could manage on
less than £30 a day by staying in
hostels or homestays, eating at
street stalls and taking public
transport. Between £50–£80 covers
mid-range hotels, admissions and
activities; over £80 and you’ll be able
to stay at luxury hotels, and hire a
guide and driver. The recent
demonetisation of the old 500 and
1,000 rupee notes has caused a
serious cash shortage. Withdrawals
are still limited at ATMs, and many
foreign cards won’t work at all, so
change plenty at the airport.WHEN TO GO
The monsoon season drenches most
of northeast India between May and
November. It’s not impossible to
travel during this period, but high
humidity, torrential downpours
and the possibility of flash flooding
must all be taken into consideration.
December to April brings more
settled weather, and balmy daytime
temperatures. Nights in mountain
areas can be surprisingly cool,
so bring a fleece, hat and gloves.PERMISSIONS & SAFETY
A permit is no longer required for
foreigners of most nationalities to
cross the border into Nagaland, but
vehicles require a tourist permit; if
you’re travelling with a driver or tour
company, they should arrange this
themselves. Visiting Naga villages
requires the permission of the local
angh (leader), so it’s essential that you
employ the services of a local guide.
Though Nagaland is generally safe to
travel, pockets of unrest and instability
remain, and healthcare is very basic.
Adequate travel insurance is a must.WHO CAN HELP
Wild Rhino Adventures
(wildrhinoadventures.co.uk) specialises
in organising trips to northeast India,
including to Meghalaya, Nagaland and
other nearby states. Its 15-day
Northeast India Tour covers all the
areas detailed in this trip and costs
£2,450 per person, not including
flights. A shorter 11-day version costs
£1,850.HOW TO
PLAN
For in-depth
information, pick
up Lonely Planet’s
encyclopaedic
India (£20.99).Eat
Masor tenga is one of
Assam’s classic dishes- a spicy fish curry in a
tangy tomato sauce,
usually served with
plain rice or roti.
Wear
Gamosas – these
rectangular, red-and-
white cloths are a
common welcome gift
in Assam. Typically
used as scarves,
bandanas or to cover
holy objects, the finest
are hand-woven from
cotton or silk.Chew
Also known as paan, supari,
kwai or areca nut, the betel
nut is eaten as a digestive
aid, breath freshener and
pick-me-up, but it’s
an acquired taste- it’s very bitter
and turns your
mouth
bright
red.
Beware
Naga chillies. These volcanic
peppers are a popular condiment
in Nagaland, but they are not for
the faint-hearted: according to
the Scoville scale, Naga chillies
are among the hottest edible
peppers known to man, roughly
half the potency of pepper spray.Buy
Handmade brass thali
dishes, etched with intricate
patterns and use to serve
celebratory meals. You
can buy them at local
markets in Assam.Sip
Tea is
consumed
frequently,
but nearly
always served
black and very
sweet. If you
want milk, it’s
likely to come
in powdery
condensed
form.markets in Assam.