26 OCTOBER 2017 / TRAVELANDLEISUREASIA.COM
/ debut /
ONCE EVERY FEW decades,
an architect creates such a
large body of work that
their designs become
interwoven with the
mantra of the place. For
Ubud, the spiritual and
creative capital of Bali,
that architect is Popo
Danes. From the Hanging
Gardens of Bali Resort,
with its split-level infinity
pool that seems to float
above the jungle, to
Natura, where all 14 tree-
villas are oriented towards
sunset, the Balinese-born,
Dutch-trained master
draftsman now has eight
resorts in Ubud under his
belt. The newest, Samsara,
opened in September.
CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: Special
delivery at Samsara; breakfast from
Kelusa; Danes’s design feels as timeless
as its forest surrounds; a villa bedroom.Twenty minutes by car
north of Ubud on the
knife-edge of a jungle
gorge riddled with
waterfalls, Samsara, like
the rest of Danes’s resorts,
is all about the views. The
foyer, like the entrance to
a modern luxury home, is
understated, sleek yet
dramatic, drenched in
270-degree misty-
mountain vistas. From
there, the property steps
down a steep hill, where
manicured terraces, little
laneways and tropical
shrubs conceal 17 villas.
Each is dressed in
Macassar marble,
handmade teak furniture
and oxidized brass faucets.Outside, on private
wooden decks, heated
plunge pools literally
swim with views of the
jungle and Samsara’s
nucleus: a gravity-defying
infinity-edge pool that
hangs over the jungle.
A case of architectural
déjà vu? Yes and no, Danes
says: “We specialize in
this kind of work, building
on steep slopes, so our
projects will naturally
have a sense of continuity.
But each site is different.”
And here, the continuity
between destination and
design is striking: an
artificial waterfall
descends from the main
pool into a water feature
and faces a real waterfall
across the gorge.
Samsara’s public spaces
have the same drop-deadgorgeous views while
hidden in plain sight.
Below the pool, in a semi-
circle enclosed in glass,
are the gym, sauna, yoga
studio and day spa where
ageless hot-stone-massage
techniques are rejigged
using heated bamboo.
Below the lobby is
Kelusa, Samsara’s 52-seat
restaurant and dining
destination in its own
right. Executive chef Iwan
Sutrisno is trying
Mediterranean-Balinese
hybrid cookery. Think
betutu (roast and spiced)
chicken cannelloni with
lemongrass pannacotta
for dessert or, for
breakfast, grilled river
lobster and eggs.
samsaraubud.com; one-
bedroom villas Rp4.2
million.Misty Mountain
As Bali continues to grow, one designer is leaving his
distinct imprint on the island. BY IAN LLOYD NEUBAUER
FROM TOP: IAN LLOYD NEUBAUER; COURTESY OF SAMSARA UBUD (3)