People used to come to Napa
because they liked good wine.
Now they want the whole
experience
30 OCTOBER 2017 / TRAVELANDLEISUREASIA.COM
FROM TOP: KELLY PULEIO / COURTESY OF THE CHARTER OAK (2); COURTESY OF TWO BIRDS/ONE STONE/ next act /
(liana estates.com; tastings US$25)
last fall in a spacious, sunny
building overlooking San Pablo Bay.
There, vintners pour wines that are
decidedly rebellious—like a crisp,
oyster-friendly orange Muscat, the
first in a planned series made from
uncommon grape varieties—and
supplement tastings with lawn
games, classes and comfortable
spaces that encourage guests to
linger. That spirit of
community and
playfulness is helping
wine shed its
intimidating reputation,
and drawing visitors who
don’t fit the stereotype of
the stuffy oenophile.
“A renaissance has been
happening in the town ofwith charred, smashed carrots and fermented chiles—a take on California
cuisine that emphasizes diners’ enjoyment over overwrought presentations.
“Napa still has the same high standards of hospitality, but it’s getting more
casual,” says chef Christopher Kostow of the Michelin three-starred
Restaurant at Meadowood in St. Helena. “That doesn’t mean ‘here’s a cheaper
version’—it means ‘here’s a restaurant for everyone.’” In opening a new spot,
Kostow was eager to forgo white linens and crystal stemware in favor of a
more laid-back approach. The result is the Charter Oak (thecharter oak.com;
mains US$18–$26), which opened in May. Kostow favors simple, smoke-
kissed produce, like peeled avocados rolled in chrysanthemum and dill, then
blistered over a flame and brushed with an oil infused with sweet pimenton
and blazing embers. Charter Oak beer koozies and drink tokens at the bar add
a touch of levity. Up the road, chefs Sang Yoon and Douglas Keane’s yakitori-
inspired Two Birds/One Stone (twobirdsone stonenapa.com; small plates
US$6–$24) opened to great fanfare last summer, featuring dishes like Saikyo
miso soft-serve with toffee and a foie gras parfait with popped sorghum. For
travelers staying in the northern reaches of the valley, the new additions have
made St. Helena a dining destination to rival Yountville.
Not to be outdone, Yountville’s established players are shaking things up,
too: the French Laundry (thomas keller.com; tasting menus from US$310) is
abuzz once again following a two-year renovation, and this past spring,
Michael Chiarello opened Ottimo (ottimo-nv.com; mains US$8–$18), his
Italian restaurant and marketplace downtown. The Vintage Inn has been
reimagined as Vintage House at the Estate Yountville (vintage house.com;
doubles from US$325), a lighter, brighter property whose rooms feature
whitewashed beams, stone fireplaces and velvet chesterfield chairs.
Wine remains an anchor for the region. Last year, once-rustic Coombsville
got a little edgier when Covert Estate (covertestate.com; tastings from US$35)
opened its private tasting salon in a hillside cave. Hidden among dilapidated
farmhouses, the room is decked out with sleek leather couches, buffalo-
hide pillows and a statement chandelier of obsidian and twisted metal.
Over in Carneros, the second generation of Napa’s Peju family, which
founded the renowned Peju Province Winery, opened Liana Estates
FROM TOP: Charter Oak, a new spot
from Michelin three-starred chef
Christopher Kostow; grilled avocado,
rhubarb, ember oil at Charter Oak;
miso soft serve from Two Birds/One
Stone. OPPOSITE: At Archer Hotel.