Travel + Leisure Southeast Asia — October 2017

COURTESY OF ARCHER HOTEL

Napa since the 1990s, but now we’ve finally reached the point where it’s

taken over as the star city of the region,” says designer Richard Von Saal.

Last year, he lent his expertise to JaM Cellars (jam cellars.com; tastings from

US$15), a small tasting room and music venue. The décor sets a rock-and-

roll vibe: an accent wall is plastered with Rolling Stone covers and band

photography, and the space is furnished with Midcentury Modern tables

and Saarinen Tulip chairs. As the sole wine spot primed for the after-

dinner crowd—shows usually go until around midnight—it’s given Napa’s

nightlife scene a shot in the arm. Down the street, an outpost of New York

City’s Blue Note (bluenotenapa.com) opened in the Napa Valley Opera House

with a lineup of international jazz acts. Adding to the town’s increasingly

compelling dining scene is a new crop of drinking and dining options, like

Cru at the Annex (cruatthe annex.com; tastings from US$29), a tasting room

with boho flair, and the CIA at Copia (cia at copia.com; classes from US$15), a

gleaming new multipurpose space from the Culinary Institute of America

that houses pop-up wine-tasting booths, oenology classes and a restaurant.

Around town, bold murals now line once-drab walls, part of a 2.7-kilometer

art corridor called the Rail Arts District. This autumn, visitors will finally

have a worthy spot to stay when the Archer Hotel (archerhotel.com; doubles

from US$209) opens with 183 luxe rooms and a rooftop spa, a cornerstone of

the massive First Street Napa mixed-use development project.

Perhaps the clearest sign of Napa Valley’s transformation is the flurry of

breweries that have set up shop, serving pints as palate cleansers between

Cab tastings. “People used to come to Napa because they liked good wine.

Now they want the whole experience,” says Napa native Matt Cromwell. His

brewery, Tannery Bend Beerworks (tannerybendbeer works.com), opened

this spring, offering small-batch beers made with citrus and herbs from the

garden at partner restaurant Oenotri. Bigger players, too, are moving in:

Berkeley-based Fieldwork Brewing Co. ( field workbrewing.com) now has a

taproom in the Oxbow Public Market, pouring drafts like Churro Cream Ale

and Atomic Garden Double IPA. San Diego’s Stone Brewing (stonebrewing.

com) will open late this year in a historic building by the Napa River. All

this is a near-tectonic shift for a region built on wine, but those who’ve

watched the valley evolve aren’t batting an eye. “That’s the thing about Napa

right now,” says Charter Oak’s Kostow. “The style is different, but the ethos

hasn’t changed.”

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