Ultramarine Magazine Issue 64 JuneJuly 2017

(Darren Dugan) #1
Myth-busting:
Higher ORP = healthier tank

Redox values can give a simplistic indication of the
‘cleanliness’ of water, but it’s important not to strive
for artificially elevated values. Ozone dosing can raise
redox, but don’t push values too far – over +400mV,
you’ll run the risk of a wipeout from the direct effects
of residual ozone or from ozone producing toxic by-
products. Bromine, for example, reacts with ozone to
produce hypobromous acid (HOBr) which is extremely
dangerous for fish. Many public aquariums use low-
bromine salt mixes to guard against these effects.
Some systems run just fine with ozone at +250mV,
some at +350mV, so don’t become fixated on bumping
up redox just because you can. If you’re achieving clear
water and the system is running well, that’s all that
matters – but measuring redox gives an indication of
when you’re nudging the ‘danger zone’ of +400mV to
+450mV.

Myth-busting:
Ozone sterilises aquarium water

In normal usage, ozone will have some effect on patho-
gens; for example, it may reduce bacterial and parasite
loading. However, studies have shown that very high
redox levels (in the +800-900mV range) are needed to
really disinfect water, which we wouldn’t come any-
where close to achieving in practice. As with UV, how-
ever, those aquarists employing probiotic techniques
which rely on free-living heterotrophic populations
should be mindful that ozone could negatively impact
the bacteria which are being encouraged. This may be
an issue if higher doses are used, but lower doses may
have minimal impact.

Free ozone is very dangerous in the aquarium, so the effluent of


the skimmer should be passed over activated carbon. This helps to


mop up any residual ozone. Ozone can also be gassed-off from the


skimmer’s collection cup into the room; to deal with this, place a mesh


bag of carbon over the cup’s air holes.


through the use of a redox (ORP


  • oxidation-reduction poten-
    tial) controller and probe. The
    controller is programmed to
    switch on the ozoniser when a
    set redox point is reached, and
    switch it off when a maximum
    value is achieved. Remember to
    check or calibrate redox probes
    regularly, as fouling can cause


readings to drift.
Alternatively, many aquarists
select an undersized unit and
dose a very small amount of
ozone constantly, or have the
ozoniser running for perhaps
only a couple of hours a day.
Whatever approach you adopt,
start slowly, and build up the
dose over time.

Check or calibrate probes regularly, as readings can drift.

This small ozoniser allows for the dosage to be dialled up or down, and for the
timing of dosing to be programmed, making it quite flexible.

48 http://www.ultramarinemagazine.co.uk

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