China Report Issue 48 May 2017

Coconut trees in the eastern flanks of
Taiwan’s Coastal Mountain Range

Photo by cfp

yours. The back roads make for a marvellous
ride, and there’s a nice trip up the mountain
behind Dulan, revered as a holy site by the
Puyama, that takes in two sites of Megalithic
archaeological interest. Follow a well-sign-
posted route to the Moonlight Inn for stun-
ning views back over Dulan and out to Green
Island and Orchid Island. Loop back and stop
to marvel at water running uphill – in fact an
eery optical illusion that will have you pacing
around and placing friends along the channel
to try and get a handle on the height of the
water.
Fifteen minutes up the road lies the sleepy
town of Donghe, an under-promoted stretch
of surf that offers a paradise for beginner and
small-wave boarders. We stayed at Low Pres-
sure Surf Hostel, a Japanese-run operation
that features particularly good food (try the
BBQ mackerel) cooked by the owner’s Bunan
wife. Beds are NT$500 a night (RMB114)
and the terrace offers glimpses of the sea and
a backdrop of imposing mountains. On the
same stretch of road sits the town’s most fa-
mous eatery: Donghe Baozi. Choose from fla-

vours including asparagus, cheese and prawn,

kimchi or mackerel salad, not to mention the

staple Donghe meat buns – they give the best

of Dongbei a run for their money. There’s also

a handmade Italian pasta place on the same

road.

Activity here is confined to mealtimes or the

rare occasions there’s a lull in the waves, which

break obligingly across a dozen spots along

the rocky-bottomed coast. As a non-surfer, I

found watching those in the water strangely

hypnotic, and their successes enticing enough

to prompt plans for a future attempt myself.

Avid fans can visit in November to catch the

Taiwan Surf Open at Jinzun Harbour.

While your friends catch the surf there is

plenty to do in the surrounding country – not

least a visit to a hidden beach or two. There’s

one a little further south from the harbour

that offers decent swimming and footloose

sands. Wing your way back north and up

into the mountains for an exhilarating, traffic-

free ride to the aptly named Monkey Bridge,

where you can enjoy being assaulted by our

close relatives to your heart’s content. These

wild Formosan rock monkeys will happily

nip your clothes or swipe your child’s arm,

so watch yourself if you invite them to play.

Those who fancy something more physically

demanding can make a foray to the Rainbow

Waterfall, which lies north of Changlong, the

next town north along the highway. This trek

crisscrosses the river as it tumbles down from

a single, epic torrent, and is not for the faint

hearted – grabbing one of the walking poles

provided at the entrance to the Maloulou

Trail is highly recommended.

Twilight in Donghe is time to unwind with

fires along the beach, or a beer outside one

of the hostels. Yet you could pass every day

this way, because for all there is to do down

here, the real joy is in the pockets of nothing

in between. Donghe and surrounds will have

you wondering if you can’t slow down, move

away and find a seaside nest all of your own.

Wondering, in fact, if those dropouts back in

Dulan aren’t on to something.

GETTING THERE

It takes just three hours and an average of

around 2,800 yuan (US$407) to reach Taipei, the

provincial capital of Taiwan, from Beijing. The

tougher part of the trip may be getting down to

the coast itself. There’s a twice daily train from

Taipei to Taitung, which takes around three hours

and thirty minutes, and then a short hop over

to Dulan by bus. You can take any number of

public buses, particularly the 8101-8103, over

from Taitung train station The Old Sugar Factory,

now a thriving nightspot, makes for a convenient

landmark. Alternatively, car rental is relatively

cheap and easy in Taiwan, compared to the

mainland, and the five-hour drive will let you see

much of the beautiful coastline for yourself.

As for accommodation, the tourist influx

hasn’t yet resulted in an according number

of guesthouses, leaving the options relatively

limited. There’s a few hostels and hotels in Dulan,

of which a favourite is the Taitung Sea Art Hotel,

a traditional Taiwanese house redesigned by a

Taiwanese-Canadian couple. Camping is one

option, especially when hotels fill up in the

summer, but be careful to follow local regulations

• the massive stretches of beach should let you
  find somewhere suitably empty and dramatic to
  pitch your tent, though.