Photo by cfp Photo by cfptrail along the river and they tower above
you. Make your way around the Wulong
and Tianzishan areas and you’re at the edge
of cliffs with pillars of different heights close
by. Wulong even lets you climb a series of
metal ladders up on to the top of the Tianbo
Mansion pillar and offers the opportunity of
crossing the Greatest Bridge Under Heaven,
where two huge stacks meet to form a bridge
which is all the more impressive when viewed
from afar.
Along with the rocky wonders are other
natural delights. The climate lends itself to
a staggering number of tree species - over
- There are giant salamander in the riv-
ers, though we didn’t see any. What’s harder
to miss are the monkeys. Be warned – they
are dangerous wild animals that can and will
creep up on you and start opening your back-
pack from behind.
Those looking to venture off on hikes may
be somewhat disappointed. First of all, the
maps are all terrible and wildly different. Any
maps on your phone are equally helpless. We
managed to get lost coming down the side
of a mountain, partly because a villager had
built her house across where the path went,
though she did lead us through her guest-
house and down off her back patio where we
found another path through scenery the clos-
est we’ll ever get to being on a fantasy planet.Then at the bottom we had to take off our
shoes and wade across a river to rejoin the
general flow of the path network.
What the park lacks in hiking trails, it
more than makes up for with its stupendous
cable car rides that dangle visitors through
the quartzite stacks, past trees clinging on for
survival, brushing along cliffs and up through
clouds. Those wanting more leisure transport
options can take a monorail or launches on
certain parts of the lakes.
The natural beauty and random improb-
ability of the scenery, matched with the un-
expected and equally improbable order of the
transport network create a doubly unique
world where after three days we found we
didn’t want to head for the thumbprint-con-
trolled exit.GettinG there
The park is in the north of Hunan
Province, around 35km from Zhangjiajie
City, which has an airport very close by.
There are direct flights to major cities
such as Beijing while many others are
routed through Changsha, around five
hours away by train or bus. The area will
soon be connected to the high-speed train
network. Minibuses from the bus station
leave for the park entrance frequently with
set fares of 12 yuan to the southern Senlin
Gongyuan entrance (1 hour) and 20 yuan
to the eastern Wulingyuan gate (80 mins).
Do not get a taxi unless you want a big
argument. Taxis waiting at the airport also
switch on their metres when they arrive
and charge you their waiting time.Practicalities
Do not feed the monkeys! And even be
careful being near people feeding the
monkeys. The park is also known as
Wulingyuan Scenic Area and its southern
entrance as Senlin Gongyuan. It’s huge
and best visited over the course of at least
two days. Try to go in spring or autumn
and avoid public holidays. In the park you
will need to use the bus services – don’t
fight it. Snacks and drinks are generally
available around the park and prices not
as exorbitant as other tourist areas. Full
meals are harder to come by. Cards are
accepted for entry tickets and also within
the park for extras such as cable cars.
Staying inside the park is recommended,
despite the terrible accommodation.
Hostels run luggage services from and to
Zhangjiajie City and bus/train stations.