33ZIGOR ALDAMA is the Far East Asia
correspondent for Vocento, Spain’s largest
media group. His work often revolves around
social and cultural issues.MIGUEL CANDELA is a photographer
currently based in Hong Kong, specialising in
social features across Asia. He won Best New
Talent at the 2012 Prix de la Photographie
(Px3) Paris competition.WHEN
The final competitions take place in
Ulaanbaatar during three days, usually
July 11–13. Alternatively, many towns across
the country hold preliminary tournaments
throughout June and July, but dates change at
random. It’s best to ask around if you want to
attend one of the preliminary events
WHERE
Archery and wrestling matches are held in the
National Stadium in Ulaanbaatar, while the
horse racing track is about 30 kilometres out
of the city centre
HOW
Ulaanbaatar is the only international airport
in Mongolia, and connections are few. Most
people fly in from China and Russia, which
are also the starting point for international
rail services. The trip from Beijing is pleasant
but takes around 33 hours. Buses run
frequently from both venues and taxis are
both readily available and inexpensiveEXPERIENCE
NAADAMPlan everything ahead, especially buying
tickets as these sell out quickly. If you
have the time, arrive a couple of weeks
early and leave Naadam for the end of
the trip. You may be able to catch some of
the Naadam qualifiers in the rural areas
before heading to the National Stadium.INSIDER’S TIP
Ulaanbaatar
MONGOLIAit’s often more interesting to attend
these more raw and rural events than
to watch the activities at the National
Stadium, where flashy billboards
abound. The infrastructure is more
basic outside of the capital, but the
spirit of the competition is more
fervent – and there is a chance to see
the contenders up close. Competitors
will often chat with visitors and even
invite them for a meal afterwards.
“I prefer to attend the matches here,”
shares a youngster in Zaamar, a couple
of hundred kilometres east of the
capital. “Although the standard may
be lower, we know the people and the
excitement is far greater.”
Those who are not interested in
sports will also enjoy Naadam. Many
cultural activities are held across
Ulaanbaatar during this time, and
there is an opportunity to jostle with
the local population from all corners
of the country – kitted out in their
best traditional costumes. Concerts
are often held at Sukhbaatar Square,
and fireworks light up the sky close to
midnight. Into the early hours of the
morning, parties are in full swing,
and the city dances away until sunrise.
It’s a testimony to the fact that
Mongolia is also well up to speed with
the developments of the 21st century:
Inside the modern discos and pubs,
the traditional deel tunic has been
traded in for the latest fashion items,
and ancient tunes have faded into
techno. However, the vodka flows as
it always has – a reminder that some
traditions never change. ageast asia