37March/April 2018 —PRACTICALITIESWhen to go
There are two rainy seasons: March to May and November to December, but with many of the
remaining months busy with holidaying Westerners, it can be wise to try a shoulder month like
March or October if possible. Note the northern slopes are noticeably drier than the southern.How to get there
Besides the international airport in the capital, Dar Es Salaam, Tanzania also has a Kilmanjaro
International halfway between Moshi and Arusha. The latter is the usual jumping off point,
a bumpy three-hour drive from the mountain.Further info
Check that your operator looks after their porters properly. The Kilimanjaro Porter Assistant
Project (www.kiliporters.org) ensures wages are paid, and adequate food and clothing are
provided. Some companies are specifically promoting the use of female staff too, for women are
often economically disadvantaged in Tanzania.Contacts
There are many outfits to choose from, local and international. Among the most reputable are:
Climbing Kilimanjaro, http://www.climbingkilimanjaro.com
World Expeditions, http://www.worldexpeditions.comWhatever you opt to do, try to have a day or two
in hand in case of unexpected problems.
Studies show something like 70% of all
who attempt the peak feel symptoms of Acute
Mountain Sickness. That so many suffer is mostly
a result of aggressive schedules brought on by
high park fees, limited holiday time (with many
cramming in a safari before or after) and a limited
supply of permanent shelters that cause some to
push on too quickly.
Tens of thousands now attempt the climb
every year – and most have an entourage of
porters (though strickly speaking only a guide
is mandatory if you are happy to hoof your own
gear). At peak times, this can mean 1,000 people
at the worst pinchpoint, the Barranco Camp!
That site lies on a route shared by a large
proportion of all who attempt the very top but
there is another, more technical choice: the Arrow
Glacier. Not all companies are willing to use this
route with its potentially treacherous scree slopes
but an experienced team with the right gear
(including crampons in case of snow) will find
this a great crowd-free alternative.Marangu (Coca-Cola route)
Ascending from the east, this is the only route
with permanent accommodation, and the only
one climbable in five days. These factors make it
the most popular trail for ascent and the traffic is
compounded by it being a two-way route. If it is
your preferred option, adding a sixth day makes
acclimatisation much easier.Machame (Whiskey route)
This is also one of the busiest routes thanks to its
directness, needing a minimum of six days. It’s
much easier to adopt the safe pattern of climbing
high, sleeping low on a seven-day schedule
however. Its main drawback is its popularity.Umbwe
A short, non-technical route including an
overnight in a cave, this route climbs from the
south, alongside the Machame.Mweka
This trail is used only for descents following an
ascent via the western routes of Shira, Lemosho,
Machame and Umbwe.Rongai
This is the only route that climbs from the north,
from close to the Kenyan border, usually using a
six-day itinerary. It gives views of Mawenzi and
remains one of the quietest of all approaches until
joining the Marangu just before Kibo Hut for the
final leg and the descent.Shira
Approaching from the west, this can even be
driven to close to 4,000m though additional
acclimatisation would then be needed. Otherwise
it is an eight-day trek, with a high start point
at 3,000m on the Shira Plateau where game is
sometimes seen amid the diverse vegetation of
forest, heath and grassland. Joins the Lemosho.Lemosho
Runs parallel to the Shira, the first two days through
montane forest inhabited by elephant and buffalo.
It starts lower though giving an acclimatisation
profile similar to that of the Machame. Many
itineraries call for a night at Barranco.Kilema
This bike-only route addresses the increasing
demand from cyclists who want to summit.
It’s wise to do a day hike ahead of time to aid
acclimatisation, then you’re ready for a five-day
roundtrip, biking up to Horombo where you join
the Marangu route for the final push. AAPHOTOS: CLIMBING KILIMANJARO