Bloomberg Businessweek - USA (2019-09-30)

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ILLUSTRATIONS BY XAVIER LALANNE-TAUZIA


◼ SOLUTIONS Bloomberg Businessweek September 30, 2019

“There’sdefinitelya lotof‘let’slearnanditerate’mental-
ity,whichis in paralleltowhatyouseein SiliconValleyas
you’regrowinga startup,”Gonzalezsays.
Experientialmarketinghasbecomeincreasinglyinter-
twinedwithsalesandlocationtesting.GlossierInc.,the
makeupe-tailerwithmorethan$100millionin revenue
andpermanentstoresin NewYorkandL.A.,hasgone
all-inonpop-ups.In 2017 thestartupranthreeweek-
longflashstoresin threecities.Glossierattractedample
mediaattentionin 2019withsix-toeight-weekpop-ups
in London,Boston,Seattle,andMiami;it hasonemore
planned—forAustinthisfall.TheSeattlepop-upfea-
turedgreenplantmoundswithburstsofpinkandpur-
ple,designedbylandscapeartistLilyKwong.Boston’s
wasaneight-hutpop-upvillage,witha differentshop-
pingexperienceineachhut:Onefocusedonbrows;
anotherdeliveredorderswhilecustomersgabbed.(“It’s
verypink,”wrotetheBostonGlobe.)
GonzalezandHaouachehaveseenplentyoffailures,
mostlywithcompaniesthatdon’thavethemanpowerto
expandtoa store.“Brandshavetohavetheoperational
infrastructuretohandlethegrowthoftheire-commerce
andalsohavea store,orelseit becomesa verybighitto
theirbandwidth,”saysGonzalez.
Socialmediaengagementisessential.“Bookinga
spacewithhighfoottrafficis notenough,”saysHaouache.
A storeshouldhavea lotoffollowers.Celebritiesand
influencerswithjustthathavejoinedthegame,includ-
ingTaylorSwift.Sheopeneda flashstorein NewYorkin
AugustforherfashionlinewithStellaMcCartney.
When it’s well-executed, a pop-up—or pop-in,
asshopsinstalled withanotherretailer aresome-
timescalled—persuadescustomerstoreturninper-
son,beatingbackthelong-prophesieddominationof
e-commerce.Onlineshoppingaccountsfor14%ofall
U.S.retailsales,accordingtoa 2019analysisbyInternet
Retailer,androughlyhalfofretailgrowth.
ThefirstfloorsoffourBloomingdale’slocationsin
NewYork,L.A.,andSanFranciscofeaturetheCarousel,
a 1,500-square-footpop-in.Themerchandiseand
designareswitchedeverytwomonths.Thelatest
themeisWindow IntoSeoul, witha coupledozen
Koreanbrandsonhandanda K-popaesthetic.“Oneof
ourbigfocusesis tocreatetheseever-changingand
veryexcitingelementstocontinuetodrivecustomers
toourstores,”saysJustinBerkowitz,men’sfashion
directorforBloomingdale’sInc.“I reallythinkthatforthe
futureofretail,”hesays,it’simportanttomake“brick-
and-mortara placewherethecustomerreallywantsto
come.”�ArianneCohen

THE BOTTOM LINE In the past two years, pop-up stores have evolved
from their marketing roots into a key driver of sales and location testing for
big and small retailers alike.

Sundays in the


Supermarché


For decades,Frenchunionshavefoughtextended
openingtimesforstores,defendinglawsthatforbid
everythingfromcornergroceriestowarehouse-size
hypermarketsfrommakingstaffersstockshelvesorsit
behindcashregistersin theweehoursandonSunday
afternoons.Suchrules,theunionssay,ensurethatwork-
ersgetneededtimeoffandprotectthemfromexploita-
tion.TwoFrenchretailchainshavecomeupwitha way
aroundthoseregulations:openingsansemployees.
GrocerygroupCasinoGuichardPerrachonis leav-
ing 200 outletsopenafteremployeesgohome,with
self-checkoutmachinesin theirstead.RivalCarrefourSA
inMaybegantestinga similarideainParis’sposh
7tharrondissementwitha marketthat’sopen24/7.The
storeslocktheirliquorcabinetsandclosemeatcounters
andcheese-cuttingstations,butshopperscanselect
whattheywantfromotherdepartments then proceed to
the automated checkout. Security guards, typically out-
side contractors, keep an eye out for shoplifters. “We’re
responding to customer demand,” says Alexandre de
Palmas, director of Carrefour’s convenience store divi-
sion. He says hundreds of shoppers show up during the
late-night hours, and there’s more traffic earlier in the
evening “because people aren’t worried the shop will be
closed when they get there.”
French retailers say they need longer hours to remain
competitive. In the largely stagnant market, the only way
to grow is by taking share from a rival, and today there
are more entrants than ever, with low-cost chains such
as E.Leclerc, Lidl, and Aldi expanding across France
and e-tailers taking a greater share of sales. “The inter-
net has changed the game, and we have to adapt,” says
Sebastien Corrado, marketing director for the Casino
group, which launched its program last December. “We’re
finding a way for physical retail to compete.”
Unions call the strategy risky: Late-night partygoers
and messy shoppers could wreak havoc. Worse, they
say, the stores are normalizing the idea that consumers

French unions
hate extended
store hours.
So shop owners
are opening
without workers
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