— March/April 2018
on the Visayan island of Negros in the central
Philippines. We’re here to look for cetaceans, an
order of marine mammals that includes about
90 species of whales, dolphins and porpoises.
About one third of these species inhabit or pass
through Philippine waters, ranging from the
2.5-metre Irrawaddy dolphin to the 30-metre blue
whale. The Tañon Strait, a 161-kilometre channel
dividing Cebu and Negros, is home to 14 species,
most of which can be seen around Bais.
“Cetaceans are extremely important for the
marine ecosystem,” Dr A.A. Yaptinchay, Director
of the Marine Wildlife Watch of the Philippines,
had told me in Manila before we’d left. “Most
are apex or top-level predators which regulate
populations of fish and squid – thereby keeping
the ecosystem balanced to promote diversity. The
bigger whales, especially filter-feeders, contribute
to nutrient distribution in the sea through a ‘whale
pump’ – fertilising the sea surface with their poop,
The whale and dolphin species at home in the Tañon Strait between
Negros and Cebu make it a hotspot for lovers of cetaceans.
Bais on which to build
By Gregg Yan
LIKE A SPORTS TEAM BEFORE A BIG GAME,
we clasp our hands and bow our heads in prayer –
except we’re bobbing in the middle of the ocean,
surrounded by sweaty boatmen.
Captain Ricardo Reynaldo finishes his prayer
and gestures to the water.
“The Tañon Strait is famous for its dolphins
and whales. Each has its own personality:
bottlenose dolphins stay near the shallows, while
spinner dolphins play in open waters. Larger
Risso’s dolphins like to float upside down, tails
sticking out of the water – but rarest of all is the
pygmy sperm whale. It is very shy and only passes
through our waters. It’s been three months since I
saw one. But perhaps,” he smiles, “someone down
there heard our prayers.”
The predicament
We’re aboard the Ezrha, a motorised banca out
of Bais, a quaint port town near Dumaguete
which encourages plankton growth.”
Once hunted for their meat and blubber, all
cetaceans are now protected in the Philippines.
Still, many die because of accidental entanglement
in fishing gear, which can cause air-breathing
mammals to suffocate or drown. Known as
bycatch, this is estimated to cause the deaths of
over 300,000 whales, dolphins and porpoises
globally every year. Other threats include marine
debris and plastic pollution, habitat destruction,
overfishing and hunting – which sadly still occurs
in remote parts of the Philippines.
“Charismatic creatures like dolphins bring
in millions of pesos from ecotourism, enriching
the lives of the people of Bais and other coastal
areas,” said Atty Gloria Estenzo-Ramos, local
head of Oceana, an international NGO focused
on protecting the seas, at the end of our cruise.
“Together with our allies, we work to conserve
fisheries in the Tañon Strait by looking at the
34 Environment