Asian Geographic - April 2018

(singke) #1

Hidden among


the paddy fields


of a remote


Thai province


lies the home


of a wizard.


Text and Photos Francis Wilmer


In a bungalow on the outskirts of a small


farming village in Uttaradit in Northern


Thailand lives Ketmunee, one of the country’s


few remaining ruesi.


The translation of ruesi falls somewhere


between “forest sage”, “monk” and “wizard”.


A spiritual descendant of the rishi of India –


who are known for writing the Vedas, the


first scriptures that formed the foundation


of Hinduism, and living lives dedicated to


searching for enlightenment – Thai ruesi have


practices tied to Hinduism and animism,


though they are considered lay members of


the Buddhist community.


Portrayed in ancient statues and paintings,


ruesi were once sought out to heal the sick,


protect people against evil, and foretell the


future. But after Theravada Buddhism swept


the country at the turn of the last millennium,


their influence waned, and they gradually


faded from mainstream spiritualism.


Today, rumours of black magic, curses


and even murder haunt ruesi practices. Most


Thais have never seen one in the flesh, only on


right Ruesi Ketmunee
lived in caves for five
years using just his
simple travelling kit

television, where they are typically portrayed
in period dramas as menacing forest sorcerers
with sinister powers. But Ketmunee chuckles
when asked about these characterisations.
“I don’t watch television, but I am nothing
like how they portray us,” he says. “I just like
to be alone – to focus on my meditation, to
bless the world around me.”
Traditionally, ruesi live an austere life in
imitation of the Lord Buddha, so as to gain
a deeper understanding of the universe. The
priorities of each individual differ: Some act as
healers while others do fortune-telling, perform
blessings, or sell love potions. Ketmunee
chose to spend the past five years meditating
in various caves, and only just returned to
the modern world, where he splits his time
between his house and the nearby forest.
Despite the tattoos, dreadlocks and tiger
skins, Ketmunee cuts a serene figure in the
wild. Strolling through the forest, he gestures
with his staff to various plants, fruits, roots and
mushrooms, pointing out which are poisonous
and which can be eaten or boiled into tea.

Under


100


POPULATION

LANGUAGE

RELIGIONS

RUESI:
mysterious forest
recluses

Hinduism,
Buddhism
and animism

ภาษาไทย
Thai

feature | ruesi

Free download pdf