Asian Geographic - 08.2018

(Grace) #1

PACU JAWI: (Fast bulls)


West Sumatra, Tanah Datar regency


WHEN: 11 months a year, one


month in each of 11 sub-districts


WHERE: 30-metre-long paddy fields


Originating from a Sumatran thanksgiving


harvest ritual, this race involves jockeys


gripping a thin rope harnessing two bulls while


balancing barefoot on a wooden plough. After


a provocative bite on each tail, teams of three


make a muddy plough toward the finish line to


the tune of traditional talempong music.


Madura Island’s
karapan sapi races
have been denounced
for cruel practices like
whipping and dabbing
chillies on bulls’ eyes

3 More Buffalo
Races Across Asia

left A pacu jawi race
during the festive
season in West
Sumatra, Indonesia

The winning bulls can fetch up to
USD4,000 in the livestock market – over
double the regular rate – so jockeys help them
reach champion speeds by administering a
second bite during the race, typically at the
field’s midpoint. But the bulls tend to charge
off in oblique directions, so lesser riders often
end up in comedic positions while spectators
cheer, laugh, and dodge the rogue animals. To
keep his bulls together, 2017 winner Hamid
recommends grabbing onto their tails: “It’s
like a steering wheel!” he says. Winning bulls
also get their own swimming pools. ag

1


Thailand’s wing kwai
races at the Buddhist
Lent see jockeys race
on steeds in three size
classes: small, medium
and large

2


India’s muddy kambala
races are a favourite
among both kings and
commoners, with prizes
from coconuts to gold
medals and trophies

3

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