India Today – August 13, 2018

36 INDIA TODAY AUGUST 13, 2018

REVENGE OF THE RIVER

A FLOOD-SWOLLEN YAMUNA

PUTS THE FOUNDATION OF THE

TAJ MAHAL IN DANGER WHILE

PLANS ANDPROMISES TO

REVIVE THE RIVER G AT H E R DUST

ON GOVERNMENT SHELVES

O

n July 25, the residents

of Agra woke up to a

nearlyforgottensound:

the white noise of the

Yamuna flowing under

the Ambedkar bridge near the Yamuna

Kinara area. The Taj Mahal sparkled

white in the distance, cleansed by the

rain. Curious citizens swarmed to take

pictures. Until the day before, the Ya-

muna riverbed was barren as a desert,

with streaks of fetid black rivulets of

sewage. People walked freely—to bathe,

pray, wash clothes or to take their cattle

for a dip—sidestepping greasy rotting

things underfoot and covering their

nose to fend off the foul smell.

That buzz of excitement has fizzled out. The river

has been rising, touching the danger mark in five

days. The water level behind the Taj has swelled, en-

tering the compound and swamping its lush gardens.

“The river is angry,” says Pahelwan Singh, 52, who

sells flowers at the Mankameshwar temple, roughly

3 km from the Taj. A couple of years ago, beautiful

boats plied upon it, he recalls. Every Sunday, people

came to take a holy dip. “Aaj uska paani itna ganda

hai, chamdi ka rog ho jaye (now the water is so dirty

one would get skin disease).” The river is taking re-

venge for years of abuse.

THE DEATH OF A RIVER Agra’s sewer lines flowing into the Yamuna

Photograph by BANDEEP SINGH

TAJ-Aug13.indd 44-45 8/2/2018 12:22:02 AM