to go fishing in the river as to sit beside it drinking craft beer and wine.
Every Friday in the warmer months, an Open Kitchen, just off the Dragon
Bridge, celebrates food from all over Slovenia and beyond. People work
hard, but leisure is taken seriously.
Perhaps a remnant of Slovenia’s socialist past, there is no culture of
celebrity. I see the Minister of Culture cycle by on her way to work, and am
told the Prime Minister often jogs alone in Tivoli Park. There are no plush
residences for government oicials; they live in their own apartments.
Pletnik Square, at the heart of Old Town, is where the citizens meet up,
as much to walk to Parliament when they decide to advise the government,
as to catch up with friends after a day’s work.
I climb to the top of Ljubljana Castle one day. I potter around the
boutiques and gourmet food stores peppered across the cobbled streets.
Every meal is an event, with local delicacies like mushroom soup at
Gostilna Sokol and goulash at Julija. Walking away from the city centre,
I find Rog, an artist’s ghetto, and then amble through Metelkova, home
to Ljubljana’s thriving alternative music and art scene. Behind elaborate
walls of street art and graiti are galleries, studios, and clubs. It’s a whole
other side to this rich and diverse city.
For a tiny country, Slovenia has abundant gifts. Word is getting out.
Tourism has grown exponentially in the last five years alone. But for now,
Slovenia offers the very best of Europe, minus the crowds and the price tags.
On my last night in Ljubljana, I splurge at Gujzina, treating myself to an
elaborate dinner, sipping Refosco between courses. My week is nearly up;
work has stayed untouched. I have come a long way from day one, when
I grabbed a lonely baguette for dinner and sat by the river feeling sorry for
myself. I have learned that travelling alone has benefits, such as doing
exactly what I want when I want—a rare luxury in a busy life. Every day has
brought joy and discovery. I’m not quite ready to go home; I’ve barely
scratched the surface of this graceful land and its friendly people.From left: Explore Bled from the waters with a boat trip;
the Venetian architecture of Piran is best discovered on
foot. Opposite, from left: Škofja Loka is referred to as
‘medieval beauty’ by locals; the Old Town in Ljubljana is
dotted with pretty cafes and restaurants.SLOW DOWN IN SLOVENIA
Choose group tours or wander solo in Ljubljana
and its surrounding towns.GETTING THERE
Fly to Joze Pucnik
Airport in Ljubljana
via Munich or Vienna.
Alternatively, fly to
Venice and drive to
Ljubljana. (2½ hours,
private car transfer on
Goopti, `10,670 for two
people, goopti.com)
STAY
The Grand Hotel
Union Business
(`10,750 upwards)
has an unbeatable
location in the Old
Town. Slightly further
out, the luxurious
InterContinental
Ljubljana (`13,536
upwards) towers over
the centre.TOURS
Ljubljananjam Food
Tours offers a few
options. Ljubljana
Essentials is a well-
rounded mix of food,
drink, and culture.
(3.5 hrs, 5,173; ljubljananjam.si) Roundabout Travels’ (travel-slovenia.com) personalised tours allow for 2-8 people. (Day trips between 5,571 and `8,356)
BEST SEASON
The weather is warm
and dry from May to
September, perfect
to enjoy Slovenia’s
many festivals and
adventure sports.
FROM LEFT: REALY EASY STAR/TONI SPAGONE/ALAMY; EAST IMAGES/ALAMY
SLOVENIALjubljanaPostojnaBledPirantravelandleisureindia.in