2018-09-01_TravelLeisureIndiaSouthAsia

(Elle) #1
voluminous dresses and All at Sea CPH, a line
devoted to the possibilities of printed pajama
silk. An even deeper dive awaits shoppers at
Sabine Poupinel, whose eponymous owner has
been sourcing crafty pieces from Denmark’s
indie avant-garde set since the 1970s and
continues to pinpoint clothing and accessories
that look like nothing, and no place, else.

ANewSpinontheClassics
By Jeff Gordinier

“Let’s get bikes,” my son said. “We have
to, Dad.”
I’d been dreading this. Toby had
remembered my promise. Now what?

Rezet Sneaker Store, a shop
teeming with limited-edition
specimens; Naked, which caters
to the all-too-often-underserved
community of female
sneakerheads; and Storm,
which stocks rarities by the likes
of Raf Simons and Yeezy.
For more local talent,
venture a block or so in either
direction. Holly Golightly
carries punkishly pretty
jewellery by Sophie Bille Brahe
and the colourful patchwork
furs of wunderkind duo Saks
Potts, while Lot#29 features
designer Cecilie Bahnsen’s


He and I were spending
a week together, just the two
of us, in Copenhagen, a city
heralded as a Shangri-la
for cyclists. Spend a few
days there and you’ll watch
thousands of beautiful, straight-
spined Danes whooshing by you
on their two-wheelers—often
with toddlers riding shotgun in
wooden seats fixed to the front.
Toby, a 12-year-old Yankees
fan who counters my sedentary
inclinations with the bottomless
energy of a triathlete, wanted
to experience Copenhagen as
locals do. It was pointless to
resist: we found ourselves
renting bikes from a helpful
man named Mustapha at one
of the shops on Gothersgade.
Our picks seemed to echo our
mentalities: thick-tired and
sturdy, Toby’s model could’ve
withstood a motocross race,
whereas mine—basket-prowed
and quaint—looked like it’d
been owned by Mary Poppins.
After handing over my
license as collateral (a common
practice for renting bikes), we
set out to see the city of Hans
Christian Andersen from its
most charming vantage point.
Though I’d travelled to
Copenhagen many times to
report on permutations of the
New Nordic culinary scene,
I’d somehow dodged its most
popular mode of transportation.
In fact, I had avoided many of
the city’s most obvious delights.
In focussing so squarely on
seeking out the trailblazing
and new, I’d overlooked the old
and iconic. As Toby taught me,
sidestepping the established
stuff in Copenhagen can be
a big mistake.
One of the most obvious
examples is visible (and
audible) from all over the city.
Look up and listen for the
screams: the Star Flyer rises
from the middle of the Tivoli
Gardens amusement park and

Bamboo chairs on the sunny roof terrace of the new
Hotel Sanders hint at the Eastern influences common
among the city’s new design-forward establishments.

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