Thomas Zacharias
A GASTRONOMICAL HOLIDAY
does sound ideal, but in
my case, it comes with the
territory—it’s part of my job.
At Mumbai’s Bombay Canteen
(thebombaycanteen.com), our
food philosophy has always
been about showcasing regional
Indian cuisines. The idea is to
create seasonal, crave-worthy
food with context, and recipes
rooted in age-old traditions and
cultures across the country.
Therefore, travelling for
research becomes a necessity.
Over the past four years,
this hungry cause has taken
me to towns and cities all over
India—places that are known
for their food. The most recent
of these food trips was spent
in Tamil Nadu. The perception
of Tamilian food, for most
people living outside the state,
never extends too far beyond
the classic idli, dosai, and
sambhar. On the contrary, the
cuisine, as I discovered, boasts
of unique culinary techniques,
some spectacular ingredients,PEOPLE & PLACES
TO SERVE SEASONAL DISHES
WITH ROOTS PLANTED IN
REGIONAL TRADITIONS,
CHEF ZACHARIAS TRAVELS
TO TAMIL NADU AND FINDS
AN UNEXPECTED FEAST
WAITING IN MADURAI.CULINARY
JOURNEYS
and several distinct cooking
styles such as the kongu nadu,
chettinad, and Tam Brahm
(Tamilian Brahmin).
My road trip began in
Coimbatore and ended in
Chennai, covering eight cities
and towns in between, selected
specifi cally to get a crash
course in the state’s diverse
sub-cuisines and traditions.
After having over three dozen
culinary experiences, my
vote for the city with the most
thrilling food scene in the state
does not go to Chennai, as most
would presume. On several
counts, from sheer variety
of choices to consistently
outstanding quality of food,
Madurai stands out.
The city’s glorious
2,500-year-old past is dotted
with signifi cant events that
have infl uenced its rich
culture. It was a major centre
of trade for several hundred
years and has witnessed
travellers from even Rome,
China, Indonesia, and Greece. CLOCKWISE: RYAN MARTIS; COURTESY OF SUMEDH NATU FOR THE BOMBAY CANTEEN; MAHESH SHANTARAMThe Meenakshi
Amman temple in
Madurai. Top right:
A serving of idli and
chutney at the
Murugan Idli Shop.Executive C hef,
The Bombay C anteentravelandleisureindia.in