ILLUSTRATION: JOHN PLUMER“I did. It wasn’t for me. I came back.” She has a wide,
easy smile. “I was on Oahu for a year. Too fast.”
“So that’s it then?” I wonder.
“Might be nice to marry some day.”
“Someone from the village?”
Moana laughs wildly. “No way. I see them every day, I
know everything about them all.”
“Is Julia around?”
Moana nods in the general direction of the stream
cutting through the valley to the ocean. I wander down
the hill; a small kid is carrying a large chicken in his
arms. He points over to the one-lane bridge and I find
Julia in her ‘Julia mobile’ — part tractor, part golf cart,
sitting by the side of the road.
I’ve known Julia for years; she invites me back to her
house on the black-rock beach where the surf crashes
then chatters as it recedes over the stones. We talk and
laugh about nothing much at all. The dog comes by for
a pet. Her grandson, Andrew, preens — he won a local
talent contest and is going to LA for his ‘big break’.
We laugh some more and dream big. I eat more
banana bread. The Kahakuloa welcome is warm
— and transitory. This is a place for locals, true locals.
Eventually I ease back onto the road.
Beyond Kahakuloa, sheer mountain walls flank one
side of the curved road; plummeting drop-offs with no
guardrail hang from the other. Then I take a hill and the
land opens and without warning I’m in grazing country: I
swear I could be in Connemara, in the west of Ireland.
Eventually, the road leads me back to Wailuku, the
island’s historic business district, with a worn-out
charm, and I find my way up into the Iao Valley in the
heart of the West Maui Mountains — the way I always
do when I’m on this side of the island. This is sacred
Hawaiian land, home to a historic battle for control
of the Hawaiian Islands between King Kamehameha
the Great and Kalanikupule. Today, it’s tranquil, lush
rainforest. Low clouds race between jagged cliffs,
waterfalls plunge. It’s a soulful place. But the light
slashing through the high walls tells me the day is
wearing on — and I’ve got to get back. Back to a few
square yards of sand by a crooked palm tree. Sunset is
coming. My spot is waiting.Getting there & around
Fly to Maui’s Kahului Airport from Heathrow with American
Airlines, United Airlines or Delta via Los Angeles daily.
aa.com united.com delta.com
You can get around Maui by shuttle, tour bus, taxi or public
transportation. But to really experience Maui, consider
reserving a rental car in advance from the Kahului or
Kapalua Airport.More info
gohawaii.com
visittheusa.com
Lonely Planet Hawaii. RRP: £15.99How to do it
WESTERN & ORIENTAL offers seven nights at Andaz Maui at Wailea
Resort, Hawaii, from £2,955 per person, based on two adults
sharing an Andaz Garden Room on a room-only basis. The price
includes return economy class flights from Heathrow with United
Airlines and private transfers. westernoriental.comESSENTIALS
KahakuloaHALEAKALAKEAWAKAPU BEACHKulaWaileaUKUMEHAME BEACH KiheiPaia
IAO VALLEYWEST MAUI
MOUNTAINSLahainaKaanapaliKapaluaKahuluiPACIFIC
OCEANPACIFIC
OCEANKahoolaweMaui
HawaiiOahuKauaiHAWAIIAN ISLANDS10 MilesFlowers of a monkeypod tree100 natgeotraveller.co.uk
HAWAII