MFUWE LODGECHONGWE RIVER CAMP
CHIAWA
Zambe
ziLuangwaLusakaSOUTH LUANGWA
NATIONAL PARKLOWER ZAMBEZI
NATIONAL PARKZAMBIAAFRICA
ZAMBIAILLUSTRATION: JOHN PLUMERStevenson chats to us about its latest project: a programme
to train local dog handlers who’ll be deployed on wildlife
protection patrols.
By the time we reach our last camp, it’s hard not to brag
about how much we’ve experienced. But Chiawa Camp is a
place that makes you feel refreshed, it’s as if we’re starting
our trip all over again. Grant Cumings, a co-founder of CLZ,
launched Chiawa with his father, Dave, and brother, Kevin,
in 1991, when Lower Zambezi was still in shock from the
loss of many of its black rhinos and many of its elephants
to poachers. Originally pretty basic, now its luxurious tents
are full of pleasingly old-fashioned touches.
Conservation informs everything Grant’s team does.
“For years, we’ve been working towards bringing back
rhinos to Lower Zambezi. It’ll take a high degree of
collaboration, but we’ve proved that’s feasible. I’m hopeful
the time will come,” he says.
We enjoy gentle drives and serene boat trips, watching
elephants inch down the river bank to drink. Finally, it’s
our last evening with head guide Daniel Susiku, and we’re
conscious we have a record to maintain — a leopard a day.
Sure enough, we encounter a beautiful female, reclining
like a sphinx beside the track.
As Daniel turns the vehicle to leave, our tracker urges
him to stop. In an instant, the leopard has sprinted
across the clearing and pounced on a male impala
considerably bigger than her. Astonished at her strength,
we watch her bring him down, only for a pair of thieving
hyenas to barge in. We drive away, railing at the injustice
of life in the bush. But there’s a postscript to this. Word
later reaches us that a nearby herd of elephants, fearful
for their young, came thundering up, scaring the hyenas
away from the kill and allowing the leopard a chance
to return. My mother, who likes a happy ending, is
delighted. And so, I have to admit, am I.Getting there & around
There are no nonstop UK-Zambia flights. Airlines that
fly to Lusaka from Heathrow with one change include
Kenya Airways, Emirates and Ethiopian Airlines.
kenya-airways.com emirates.com ethiopianairlines.com
Proflight Zambia flies from Lusaka to Mfuwe in South
Luangwa and to the Lower Zambezi Royal Airport.
proflight-zambia.comWhen to go
While the best time to go to South Luangwa and
Lower Zambezi is between July and September, with
dry weather and manageable temperatures, the rainy
season from December to June can also be enjoyable
for its green landscapes and abundant birds. The
seasonal bushcamps are closed for at least part of the
rainy season, but permanent lodges such as Mfuwe
Lodge remain open and offer discounted rates.
October and November, however, can be
uncomfortably hot.Places mentioned
Mfuwe Lodge and Chindeni Bushcamp.
bushcampcompany.com
Chongwe River Camp and Tsika Island Camp.
chongwe.com
Chiawa Camp. chiawa.comMore info
Zambia, by Chris McIntyre (Bradt Travel Guides).
RRP: £18.99
First-Time Africa, by Emma Gregg and Richard Trillo
(Rough Guides). RRP £8.99
zambiatourism.comHow to do it
NATURAL WORLD SAFARIS can create a 13-day
bespoke safari combining seven nights with The
Bushcamp Company in South Luangwa (two nights at
Mfuwe Lodge and five at any of their six bushcamps)
and four nights at Chiawa Camp in Lower Zambezi
from £6,770 per person.
Alternatively, their Two Rivers Secret Season Safari
special includes three nights with The Bushcamp
Company (one night at Mfuwe Lodge and two at
Kapamba Bushcamp or Zungulila Bushcamp) plus three
nights at Kasaka River Lodge, Lower Zambezi from
£3,680 per person.
Both options include full-board accommodation, safari
activities, transfers, internal flights and flights from
Heathrow with Kenya Airways. naturalworldsafaris.comESSENTIALS
ABOVE: Emma’s mum,
Sally, and Manda
Chisanga enjoying
safari sundowners in the
Kapamba River, South
Luangwa National Park
110 natgeotraveller.co.uk
ZAMBIA