Its long-held reputation as a centre of heritage and learning
makes Boston’s edgier neighbourhoods all the more
refreshing. Words: David Whitley. Photography: Josh ReynoldsBOSTON
Neighbourhood
Ironically for the birthplace of the American Revolution, Boston is
the most British US city — a liberal mind is married to a certain
primness of heart, heritage is meticulously maintained and things
are to be tackled in a certain way. Headlong rushing into new
trends is not the city’s style — there always seems to be a
deliberate thoughtfulness even when experimenting. But within
this framework, compelling personalities are allowed to emerge.Back Bay
Back Bay is where Boston drops the act
of being some sort of prim Olde Worlde
historic theme park of breeches, tricorn
hats and huzzah-ing patriots. A little newer
than the neighbouring Downtown and
Beacon Hill areas, it’s also a little feistier
and satisfyingly contradictory.
The city’s big convention centre-serving
hotels cluster here, alongside steakhouses. But
there’s dreamy architecture too — churches
bulging with ornate features dot the corners.
Back Bay is an area that rewards the nosy.
The BUKOWSKI TAVERN is a classic dive bar,
where locals line up on stools and demolish
burgers. The peanut butter and bacon one is,
erm, a bold choice.
Then there’s LOLITA COCINA & TEQUILA
BAR, which offers a slightly out-of-the-
ordinary Mexican menu featuring the likes
of blackened halibut tacos with radish
and scallions, plus a bewildering list of
variations on the classic margarita. But head
downstairs and it’s considerably more out
of the ordinary. There’s a red-lit bordello
vibe with heavily tattooed cartoon women
painted on the walls, OTT gothic chandeliers
and enormous black leather couches.
Back Bay is also home to what is surely
Boston’s most likeable street. Newbury Street
is regarded as Boston’s prime shopping strip,
but it feels like this is a happy accident rather
than a deliberate ploy. The street is lined
with handsome brownstone buildings withbulging bays. Many have carefully tended
tiny gardens at the front, and most have
steps leading down to a lower level. But it’s
the fact that everything is shoehorned in
that makes Newbury Street so lovable. Those
lower-level stores include world-renowned
shoemaker John Fluevog, smoothie bars and
hip secondhand fashion boutiques. There’s a
similar variance up top, with the likes of the
TRIDENT BOOKSELLERS AND CAFE, serving up
seemingly a zillion different egg dishes and
juice combos among the groaning shelves.
But there are also outdoor gear stores, local
designers and NEWBURY COMICS — geek
heaven, with racks of vinyl, pop culture
knick-knackery and action figures from
every fantasy and sci-fi show imaginable.November 2016 57