Italia__-_November_2016

a table in the hotel’s Michelin-starred

restaurant but stars are way beyond

my budget. The courtyard was full

of expensive sofas, patio umbrellas

and trees in pots. And lots of

beautiful people talking deals. I had

transitioned from a cosy international

hotel bar to Milanismo and, boy, were

the waistlines smaller! According

to the drinks menu, every cocktail

had been dramatically reconceived –

including a martini that came with

lots of smoking dry ice. However,

when I asked for one with fewer

pyrotechnics – stirred, not shaken and

certainly not on fire – it was brought

in a beautifully chilled, simple metal

goblet. Feeling much more at home,

I asked the bar manager about the

local social scene. Aperitivo is such a

way of life in big cities like Milan.

According to my new friend you meet

after work for a couple of hours of

modest imbibing among your friends

and colleagues. Then, at 8 or 9pm,

you go on to dinner – where you never

overeat – and finally on to a disco

if you still feel young and energetic

enough. No jazz bars, no clubs, no

benders, so I was informed. No nights

at the opera either, unless you have

a serious amount of money or your

parents own an abbonamento.

Sitting at my discreetly positioned

table in the corner I realised that I was

seeing the influential one per cent of

Milan at play. This is a community

where thin, young people slowly

become thin, old people, while

making a lot of money. They seemed

happy – but then why wouldn’t they?

THE ROOF OF THE GALLERIA

The next day I was back in the city

centre looking at what was else new.

After nearly 140 years, people are

finally allowed up onto the roof of the

Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II. This –

possibly the most glamorous shopping

centre Europe – was built in 1877,

but it’s only since May 2015 that you

can access the web of roofline gantries

between the great domed glass

ceilings of the Galleria. It’s a great

place to take photos of the Duomo

and every else in Milan, with views

as far as the Alps and Apennines.

You also get an understanding of the

Galleria’s structure. This was like

being backstage at some great

WHERE TO STAY

LA GARE •^7

Via Giovanni Battista Pirelli, 20

☎ +39 02 872 5241

[email protected]

http://www.lagarehotelmilano.it

Modern, stylish, and much better than

average businessman’s hotel near the

central station. The bargain option perhaps,

but ideal if you’re out sight-seeing all day

and dining in restaurants all evening. This

is also the place you’ll stay if you book a

deal with Railbookers (see ‘Getting There’

over the page). Double rooms from £112.

IL PRINCIPE DI SAVOIA •^8

Piazza della Repubblica, 17

☎ +39 02 62301

[email protected]

http://www.dorchestercollection.com

The grand old lady of Milan hotels, situated

between the Centrale station and the old

city gate, is surprisingly good value for

money. A home from home for celebrities.

Double rooms from £170.

SINA THE GRAY •^9

Via San Raffaele, 6

☎ +39 02 720 8951

[email protected]

http://www.hotelthegray.com

An extremely modern hotel that’s a bit

OTT – each room a different colour and

a big red and purple swing in reception.

Conveniently located between the Duomo

and Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, however.

Double rooms from £260.

TOWNHOUSE GALLERIA •^10

Via Silvio Pellico, 8

☎ +39 02 3659 4690

[email protected]

galleria.townhousehotels.com

Beautifully converted and actually in the

Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II. Wonderful

views down. Double rooms from £319.

TOWNHOUSE DUOMO •^11

Via Silvio Pellico, 2

☎ +39 02 4539 7600

[email protected]

duomo.townhousehotels.com

Another trendy new hotel, this time

converted out of 19th-century city offi ces.

Great views into Piazza del Duomo and the

cathedral itself. Double rooms from £440.

MANDARIN ORIENTAL •^12

Via Andegari, 9

☎ +39 02 8731 8888

http://www.mandarinoriental.com

This is the one everyone’s talking about, if

you can afford it. Uber-design, uber-trendy

and (yes) reassuringly expensive. Perfectly

located between La Scala and fashionable

Via Monte Napoleone. Double rooms from

just £467.

DON’T MISS

TEATRO ALLA

SCALA MUSEUM

Tickets to La

Scala are not

easy to come

by but at the

adjoining

museum you can

get a glimpse

into the famous

auditorium

and also see

costumes, sets

and manuscript

scores from the

great operas.

Largo

Ghiringhelli, 1

☎ +39 02

8879 7473

garino@

fondazione

lascala.it

November 2016 ITALIA! 37

Looking up to the domed roof of the Galleria

Much of modern Milan

is in this subdued black

and white style

IT144.48hrsMilan.sg4.indd 37 28/09/2016 13:50pm