generations of Peruvian-born Chinese and
Japanese that have had a large influence on
Peruvian culture, especially in the
country’s cuisine.
Then there are also the markings of a
modern civilisation that continues to
expand its global reach. High-rise condos
are built right next to pre-Columbian
temples, and ultramodern seaside
neighbourhoods butt up against gritty
shantytowns that cling to barren hillsides.PHOTOGRAPHS: INÉS MENACHO, BEATRICE VELARDE
HEN PEOPLE HEAR OF
Lima, the next word to
cross their minds is most
likely ‘beans’ and not
‘Peru’. And while lima
beans are one of the more famous things to
have originated from this city, there is
more to this capital beyond ancient
Mesoamerican produce that continues to
be cultivated.
For those who have heard of Lima,
however, many still think that Lima’s
history began in 1535, after the founding of
the colonial city by Francisco Pizarro, the
conquistador who toppled the Inca
Empire. But many forget that the first
inhabitants of Lima settled in the area as
early as 10,000 years ago. A pre-Inca
civilisation had thrived in this coastal city
for a thousand years before the Spanish
arrived, leaving behind impressive huacas
and beautiful ceramics. Huacas are just a
smidgen of the attractions to be found in
Lima. As the seat of the Spanish rule for
300 years, Lima also has wonderful
churches and cloisters of monasteries that
are worth a visit.
That isn’t to say Lima is just a ruin and
relic-filled desert. The largest city of Peru
is also the second largest capital located in
a desert, after Cairo in Egypt. Lima is every
bit a sophisticated cosmopolitan mega-
capital. Peru is a multiethnic nation
formed by the combination of a variety of
cultures and races over five centuries.
Indigenous ethnicities here include tribes
from the Andes and Amazon, and colonial
rule brought along European ethnicities
like the Spanish, British and Croatian. Two
of the largest groups of immigrants,
however, are the Chinese and Japanese,
who arrived as miners and railroad
workers in the late 19th century. There areW
Everyone is aware of Peru and the mountains and the Incas but
Lima is something that people discover, especially our food.
- Mario Testino OBE, Peruvian fashion
and portrait photographer
“
”
In the museum-saturated city are also
collections upon collections of sublime
ancient pottery left behind by civilisations
that have long gone extinct, as well as
galleries debuting edgy art from local
Peruvian artists that are beginning to catch
the eyes of art collectors everywhere.
Lima is right on the other side of the
globe from Singapore and Kuala Lumpur.
Unfortunately, flying into the city’s Jorge
Chavez International Airport is a
minimum 30-hour affair. Routes with
minimal transits will include stopovers at
Amsterdam or Paris first, where there are
daily flights into Lima. Navigating Lima is
neither an easy task. The chaotic network
of confusing buses and unregulated taxis
in heavy traffic make getting around
complicated, time-consuming and quite
frankly, daunting. However, your best
option is still to take a taxi, as they are
generally inexpensive. It would be wise to
negotiate a price before boarding if flagging
a cab off the side of the road, as many do
not have meters. It is easier and safer to
book a taxi by phone, otherwise, get
concierge to set up a driver for the day.
Don’t let the complications of travel stop
you from visiting Lima, however. This city
of contrasts that sees high-rise buildings
right next to pre-Columbian temple ruins
presents a multi-faceted city that readily
introduces the rest of Peru.Distrito de ChorillosMercado Indio’s
sells souvenirs
bearing Peruvian
craftsmanship