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Budget
Brussels
There are plenty of cheap thrills to be had in
Belgium’s fascinating historic capital, where
Art Nouveau façades clamour for attention
with brewpubs and multicultural markets.Markets have
existed at
Grand Place
since the
11th centurySights
Activities L’Eixample
COMIC-STRIP MURALS
Belgium’s vibrant comic-strip
culture (Hergé and Tintin came
from this neck of the woods) is
writ large on the streets of
Brussels where dozens of
comic-strip murals enliven alleys
and thoroughfares throughout
the old city centre. The tourist
office on Grand Place has a
‘comic strip trail’ pamphlet
showing the locations of more
than 50 murals with commentary.PLACE DU JEU DE BALLE
FLEA MARKET
This chaotic flea market,
established in 1919, and spilling
over with brocante (bric-a-brac),
is a favourite with local
shoppers. Haggling for a bargain
here is a quintessential
experience in Brussels’ once
resolutely working-class
Marolles quarter. It’s at its
liveliest on weekends – get your
elbows out – but the best
bargains are to be had early
mornings midweek (Place du Jeu
de Balle, Marolles; weekdays
6am–2pm, weekends 6am–3pm).BREWERY TOUR
Brasserie Cantillon is Brussels’
last operating lambic brewery
(the beer is produced by
spontaneous fermentation),
and an atmospheric brewery-
museum where much of the
19th-century equipment is still
used. Take a self-guided tour,
including the barrel rooms
where the beers mature for up
to three years in chestnut casks.
The entry fee includes a glass
of one of Cantillon’s brews
(cantillon.be; Rue Gheude 56;
closed Weds; US$7.80).GRAND PLACE
One of the world’s great urban
spaces, the enclosed cobblestone
square is only revealed as you
enter on foot from one of six
narrow side alleys. It’s crammed
with 15th- to 18th-century
guildhalls that are unashamed
exhibitionists. Magically lit at
night, it’s alive with classic
Belgian cafés and hosts a flower
market on Monday, Wednesday
and Friday mornings.MUSÉES ROYAUX DES
BEAUX-ARTS
This prestigious mega-museum
incorporates Brussels’ museum
of Old Masters, where the
15th-century Flemish Primitives
are well represented, its Modern
Art museum, an Art Nouveau
museum and the purpose-built
Musée Magritte, which holds the
world’s largest collection of
the Belgian Surrealist’s works
(fine-arts-museum.be; closed
Mon; combination ticket US$15).PALAIS DE JUSTICE
This hilltop complex of law
courts was the world’s biggest
building when it was
constructed (1866–83). The
main lobby, beneath a giant
dome and watched over by
forbidding statues, is open to
visitors but receives far fewer
than it deserves. Behind the
building a terrace offers wide
panoramas over Brussels and a
free glass elevator leads down to
the Marolles (Place Poelaert; free).MAISON ANTOINE
Maison Antoine is a classic little
fritkot (takeaway chip kiosk) in
the EU quarter, with a reputation
for some of Brussels’ best frites.
Such is its popularity, that cafés
on the surrounding square
(including beautifully wrought
iron-fronted L’Autobus) allow
frites eaters to sit and snack
so long as they buy a drink
(maisonantoine.be; Place
Jourdan; frites from US$2.90).GARE DU MIDI
MARKET
This Sunday market is said to be
the biggest in Europe and it’s a
good place for cheap eats. Its
sprawl of colourful stalls has an
international flavour, with exotic
North African and Mediterranean
spices, cheeses, meats, and food
stands selling bites such as
Moroccan crêpes. Come early
and you’re likely to see clubbers
emerging from a long night out
(Gare du Midi; 6am–1pm Sun).DE ULTIEME
HALLUCINATIE
For the price of a beer (from
US$2.25) at this Schaerbeek bar,
you’ll get to spend some time
ogling a magnificent Art
Nouveau timewarp. It is located
in a classic townhouse refitted
with Art Nouveau interiors in
1904 that have barely changed.
The salon has original lamps,
brass radiator covers and stained
glass (ultiemehallucinatie.be;
Rue Royale 316; closed Sun).A mural of outlaws The Daltons
on Rue de la BuanderieView of the upper floor of the
Musées Royaux des Beaux-ArtsFamily-run Maison Antoine
was established in 1948Fold 2