Lonely_Planet_Asia_-_September_-_October_2016

Tear out page here then fold along the dotted lines TURN OVER FOR MAP AND NUMBER LOCATIONS

Fold 1

MINI GUIDE

Weekend in

Gothenburg

Often in Stockholm’s shadow, Sweden’s

chilled-out second city (Göteborg in Swedish) is

a cosmopolitan port with historic canals,

cutting-edge art and bags of weekend appeal.

Café culture on

the main street

of the Haga

neighbourhood

Friday

Saturday Sunday

CITY BOAT TOUR

Gothenburg’s old moat and

canals date back to the 17th

century and a boat tour offers a

fascinating view of the city.

Open-top boats glide under low

bridges and then slip out into

the harbour amid traditional

shipyards. Strömma offers a

hop-on hop-off Paddan boat

ticket (early Jul–late Aug), valid

for 24 hours, and other tours the

rest of the year (stromma.se;

hop-on hop-off ticket US$22).

MARITIMAN

The world’s largest floating ship

museum includes fishing boats,

a lightship and a firefighter, all

linked by walkways. Shin down

into the 69m-long submarine

Nordkaparen for a glimpse into

underwater warfare. Inside the

labyrinthine destroyer Småland,

in service from 1956 to 1979,

hunched figures listen to

crackling radio messages, and

the bunks look just-slept-in

(maritiman.se; Packhuskajen;

10am–6pm Jun–Aug, 11am–

5pm May & Sep, see website for

Oct–Apr dates; US$13).

GÖTEBORGS

KONSTMUSEUM

Scandinavian masters such as

Bruno Liljefors, Edvard Munch,

Anders Zorn and Carl Larsson

have pride of place in the city’s

premier art collection, and the

gallery also hosts works by

Impressionists, Rubens, Van

Gogh, Rembrandt and Picasso.

Other highlights include a

superb sculpture hall,

photography exhibitions and

new Nordic art (konstmuseum.

goteborg.se; Götaplatsen;

11am–6pm Tue & Thu, to 8pm

Wed, to 5pm Fri–Sun; US$5).

EVENING IN THE PARK

The Trädgårdsföreningen

(Garden Society) is a large park

off Nya Allén that locals have

been taking a turn in since 1842.

Full of flowers and tiny cafés, it’s

also home to a big rosarium and

the gracious 19th-century

Palmhuset (Palm House): look

out for the camellia collection

and two-metre-wide lily pads

(tradgardsforeningen.se; Nya

Allén; 7am–8pm May–Sep,

to 6pm Oct–Apr; free).

THÖRNSTRÖMS KÖK

For a lesson in modern Swedish

cuisine, splash out for dinner at

this Michelin-starred restaurant

where chef Håkan Thörnström

presents flawless dishes using

local, seasonal ingredients, such

as sweetbreads with hazelnut and

cured perch with rhubarb. Tasting

menus are available, along with à

la carte (thornstromskok.com;

Teknologgatan 3; 6pm–1am, from

5pm Fri–Sat, closed Sun; mains from

US$35, four-course menu US$75).

NOBA NORDIC BAR

With ye olde maps of Scandinavia

on the walls and a glassed-over

beer patio with birch tree stumps

for stools, this bar takes its Nordic

beers very seriously. From

Iceland’s Freyja to Denmark’s

K:rlek, you name it, this bar’s got

it. Free-flowing whiskies liven up

the scene on weekends (noba.nu;

Viktoriagatan 1a; 5pm–midnight

Sun–Mon, 4pm–1am Tue–Thu,

4pm–3am Fri–Sat; tap beers from

US$5, bottled beer from US$7).

BROWSING IN HAGA

The Haga neighbourhood is the

city’s oldest suburb, dating from

1648. A hardcore hippie hang-out
      in the 1960s and 1970s, its
      cobbled streets and vintage
      buildings are now a blend of cafés,
      vintage shops and boutiques.
      During some summer weekends
      and at Christmas, store owners set
      up stalls along the central street
      of Haga Nygata, turning the
      district into one big market.

HEMMA HOS

With a smooth black bar and

comfortable tables, this Haga

restaurant-bar manages to be

both urbane and relaxed. Its

selection of small plates is

decidedly gourmet – slow-

cooked pork with apple chutney

or goat’s cheese with honey

and pine nuts – and there’s

good wine by the glass

(hemmahoshaga.se; Haga

Nygata 12; Mon–Thu 4pm–

11pm, Fri 3pm–late, Sat noon–

late, Sun noon–10pm; mains

from US$15).

RÖDA STEN

Inside a defunct, graffitied power

station beside the Älvsborgsbron

• the big bridge across the Göta
  älv downsteam from the city
  centre – Röda Sten’s four floors
  are home to temporary
  exhibitions from international
  artists that push boundaries. The
  indie-style café hosts live music,
  stand-up comedy and even boxing
  matches (rodasten.com;
  noon–5pm Tue–Sun, to 7pm Wed,
  check website for temporary
  closures; US$5).

A boat tour takes in the charms

of Gothenburg’s waterways

Enjoy long Scandinavian summer

evenings at Trädgårdsföreningen

Gothenburg’s creative spirit is on

show at Röda Sten (Red Stone)

Fold 2