Scottish Islands Explorer - November-December 2016

I

t was early March when my husband and I were the only

passengers on the boat from Balmaha to the tiny island

of Inchcailloch on Loch Lomond. Snow still covered the

mountains to the north and despite the sunshine and blue

skies, there was a chill in the air. As we slipped out across the

glassy surface of the loch towards the densely wooded dome

of the island, I felt excited.

is was my first visit to Inchcailloch and the first of four

planned seasonal sojourns. It is uninhabited, a National Nature

Reserve, forms part of the Highland Boundary Fault - the

geological junction between the Scottish Highlands and the

Lowlands - and is a place of both natural and historical interest.

Magical and Mysterious

ese things I knew before arriving, but what I could not

know, without previous experience, was the special

atmosphere of this place. Ascending the worn stone steps

from the north jetty, I was immediately struck by the palpable

sense of peace - it was utterly quiet. I felt as if I was entering

what I can only describe as a magical and mysterious place.

e winter bare oak trees were clothed in lichen and from

somewhere inside the woodland, the distinct tapping of a

woodpecker was the only sound to break the silence. e

name ‘Inchcailloch’ means ‘island of the old women’. It was

in the early 8th Century that St. Kentigerna, daughter of an

Irish prince and mother of St. Fillan came here to follow a

hermit’s life of contemplation.

It is not difficult to imagine why this place had been chosen

for such a vocation. Not far from the jetty are the remains of

a 13th Century chapel and burial ground, my first port of

call. In the morning sunlight, it was a thing of gentle beauty.

e old stone walls were covered in a thick carpet of bright

green moss, snowdrops adorned one of the graves and the

delicate shadow patterns of the surrounding trees were

thrown across the turf.

e peace of the island felt deeper still in here. is is the

traditional burial ground of the Clan MacGregor. A fine table

top gravestone dated 1623 belongs to Gregor Macgregor, clan

chief and cousin of the famous Rob Roy. Little of the church

remains aer disuse in the late 18th Century, although the

burial ground continued to be used until 1947.

The Privilege of an Island

My remaining task for the day was to walk all the island’s

pathways - not a difficult undertaking. e complete circuit

takes less than an hour and a half. With a whole day to

explore, we intended to take much longer. Besides, we had

the privilege of an island to ourselves - or so we believed.

Deep in the process of photographing a woodland scene

shot through with silver light, a voice from another world

appeared from behind with, “Do you know anything about

mobile phones?” It’s a long story, but we discovered a lot from

our meeting with Man Friday. ere are other ways to arrive

on this island. Does anyone have a kayak for sale?

50 SCOTTISH ISLANDS EXPLORERNOVEMBER / DECEMBER 2016

1. Islay 2. South Uist 3. Shetland Mainland 4. Skye 5. Barra 6. Arran 7. Harris 8. Tiree 9. Whalsay 10. Seil

ISLAND INCIDENTS

Barbara Sellars experienced the ancient and modern in Inchcailloch

Inchcailloch Burial Ground - Barbara Sellars

In the Next Issue ...

Island- Nurses

Flight- Shortest

Lismore- Close

Mingulay- Book

Seabirds- Flocking

Kayaking- Clockwise?

On Sale 18 December