T
he Andean sun, veiled by passing clouds
but deceptively strong, shines down
onPlazaBolivar.Asever,thesquareis
thronging with tourists, SIM-card vendors,
presidential guards in ceremonial uniform
and children chasing pigeons. On one side,
the magnificent neoclassical cathedral.
Opposite is the town hall. A third building houses the
Capitolio Nacional, seat of the national congress. The fourth
is occupied by the Palace of Justice which, in November
1985, was attacked by members of the M-19 Marxist
guerrilla group. They took 300 people hostage. A hapless
military raid followed, during which 11 Supreme Court
justices, 49 Colombian soldiers, 35 M-19 guerrillas and 11
ancillary staff and civilians died or disappeared.
Whether here in La Candelaria – the cobblestoned
historic centre – or in its skyscraper-strewn sprawl,
Colombia’s past horrors are easily unearthed. Historians
usuallytracetheoriginsofthenation’swell-reportedwoes
to a ten-year civil war known as La Violencia, sparked by the
assassination of presidential candidate Jorge Eliecer Gaitan
in 1948. But the armed conf lict that generated the image of
apariahnation–inthralltodruglords,left-wingrebelsand
right-wing paramilitary groups – probably peaked in the
1990s, when two-thirds of the world’s kidnappings occurred
here,andtheFARC(RevolutionaryArmedForcesof
Colombia) controlled up to a third of Colombia’s territory.
Dealing with the past
From 2002, the government of Alvaro Uribe gave the army
greater powers to undermine the military strength of the
guerrillas. His successor, Juan Manuel Santos, kept up the
pressure and invited FARC to peace negotiations. The
twin-pronged approach worked. Santos was awarded the
Nobel Peace prize in 2016. On September 1, 2017, FARC
became a political party, parading through Plaza Bolivar.
In tandem with these changes are dramatically improved
economic prospects. Since 2011, direct foreign investment
into Colombia has more than doubled and, according to
the Ministry of Commerce, more than 1,100 foreignirms
have set up operations in the country. In May, Colombia
was invited to join Mexico and Chile
as the third Latin American member
of the OECD, the select club of 36
wealthy, stable democracies.
But South America’s third largest
economy, behind Brazil and Argentina,
relies heavily on global commodity
prices. Inevitably, Colombia reels
wheneverthereisadownturn–asat
present – in the value of petroleum, coal,
bananas, cut f lowers or cofee. It’s the
world’s largest producer of mild, washed
Arabica coffee; in 2017, production was
14.2 million bags, mainly for export.
Economic growth slowed to 1.8 per cent in
2017 – down from 2 per cent the previous year
(and way down from the 5-6 per cent notched up
before the crude oil crash of 2014). But the World Bank
noted an upturn in financial services. As the climatic effects
of the El Nino phenomenon dissipated and the livestock
sector expanded, agriculture expanded 4.95 per cent last year.
Colombia reels when
thereisadownturnin
the value of petroleum,
coal, bananas,
f lowers or coffee
NOVEMBER 2018 businesstraveller.com
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