Business Traveller Asia-Pacific Edition – November 2018

TRIED AND TESTED LONDON RESTAURANTS

72

NOVEMBER 2018 businesstraveller.com

Roganic

This is chef Simon Rogan’s latest attempt to crack

the London market after the unanimous acclaim

of his restaurant in the Lake District, L’Enclume.

It has many of his signature approaches: foraging,

fermentation, molecular cooking and multi-course

menus of small plates. The high prices make it

a temple of gastronomy best suited to special

occasions and celebrations, yet the dining room

is modest and the service casual.

Highlights of our six-course meal included

appetisers of fermented raspberry tart, tender

sous-videpork, and plenty of surprises along the

way such as little parcels of raw beef wrapped in

slivers of kohlrabi. Various menu options start from

a £40 (US$52) business lunch up to £115 (US$151)

for the tasting menu; the latter has the option

of paired wines for an additional £75 (US$98)

per head. These prices are excluding service, so

dinner can easily top £200 (US$262) per person.

VERDICTChef Simon Rogan’s best venture in the

Big Smoke so far, though it doesn’t approach

the sublime experience that makes L’Enclume

in the Lake District one of the best restaurants in

the UK – and the world.Guy Dimond

GREAT

WINE BARS

XTHE OTHER

NAUGHTY PIGLET

Usefully placed

between Victoria and

Westminster, this

theatre wine bar serves

tasty small plates and

excellent wines.

theothernaughty

piglet.co.uk

XVINOTECA

A small chain of

wine bars with an

uncommonly well-

chosen selection of

wines by the glass.

The large branch at

King’s Cross is worth

a detour for its

outdoor terrace.

vinoteca.co.uk

XTHE WINEMAKERS

CLUB

This series of

archways below

Holborn Viaduct

has been turned

into a wonderfully

atmospheric curiosity.

thewinemakersclub.

co.uk

Brat

The City of London’s stupidly high restaurant bills

have been edging eastwards for some time, and

Brat is a trendy restaurant capitalising on diners

who will happily spend £65 (US$85) on a whole

turbot. But despite the prices, this is a friendly,

bohemian place, set in one of Shoreditch’s

repurposed workshops. There’s as much focus

on the wines as the food, and it even calls itself a

“wood grill and wine bar”; there’s a long bar (no

reservations), plus more seating at shared tables

for diners who’ve booked online. Basque-style

small plates might include rabbit, blood sausage

and beans, or langoustines cooked on the wood-

fired grill – the same grill that’s used for cooking

many of the dishes, from beef chop (£58/US$76

for the large version) to Dover sole (£28/US$37).

Wines are supplied by the team behind Noble

Rot wine bar, and are expertly chosen; the

selection by the glass is exemplary.

VERDICT For City diners who are looking for

something a little more interesting than the

usual corporate haunts, this retro-looking dining

room has bags of charm, and good cooking that

belies its humble appearance. Guy Dimond

HOURS

Tue-Wed noon-

3pm, 6-10pm;

Thur-Sat noon-

3pm, 6-11pm;

Sun 1pm-8pm.

PRICE

Meal for two

with wine

and service,

around £130

(US$170).

CONTACT

First floor,

4 Redchurch

Street, E1 6JL;

bratrestaurant.

com

HOURS

Tue-Sat 12-2pm,

6.30-10pm.

PRICE

Six-course

set lunch £40

(US$52) per head;

tasting menu £115

(US$151) per head.

CONTACT

5-7 Blandford

Street, W1U 3DB;

+44 (0)20 3370

6260;

roganic.uk

GUY DIMOND