New Zealand Listener - November 5, 2016

46 LISTENER NOVEMBER 5 2016

THIS LIFE

GETTY IMAGES

by Michael Cooper

WINE

C

ourting calorie counters, wines

with less than 10% alcohol

have hit the shelves in the US

in recent years, promoted by

celebrity nutritionists and marketed

under such brands as Skinnygirl.

Here, such low-alcohol wines – often

dubbed “lifestyle” wines – have

captured 2.4% of total wine sales

in supermarkets. But are they really

lower in calories?

An analysis of US wines published

in The Drinks Business found that the

calorie savings “aren’t particularly

significant”. A normal glass of white

wine, containing 13.5% alcohol by

volume, had 112 calories, compared

with 95 calories per glass for wines

in The Skinny Vine range (labelled as

Slim Chardonnay, Mini Moscato and

Thin Zin).

Made from early picked grapes,

low-alcohol wines are typically

relatively high in acidity and natural,

unfermented grape sugars – hence the

moderate reduction in calories. It’s

also fair to say that low-alcohol wines

made from such grapes as sauvignon

blanc are not only lighter in alcohol,

but also in flavour richness. But if

you want to enjoy a glass or two at

lunch, and stay clear-headed for the

afternoon’s work, they could be the

answer.

Wairau River Summer Marlborough

Riesling 2016

Made “to be supped with frivolous

frivolity”, this fresh, light-bodied

wine (9.5% alc/vol) is medium-sweet,

with good intensity of peachy, citrusy

flavours, fresh and tangy. Delicious

from the start. $20

Lindauer Enlighten Moscato Rosé

This recently launched sparkling is

just 8.5% alc/vol. Based on muscat

grapes, it was blended with a splash

of pinotage (hence its enticing, pale

pink hue). Deliciously light and lively,

it is unabashedly sweet, but very

crisp, fruity and well balanced, in a

simple but vivacious style that offers

plenty of pleasure. $13

Old Coach Road Lighter in Alcohol Nelson

Riesling 2015

From Seifried, this is a crisp, slightly

sweet wine (9.5%/vol), with vibrant,

lemony, appley, limey flavours, a firm

acid spine and lots of drink-young

charm. $13

Villa Maria Private Bin Lighter Hawke’s

Bay Rosé 2016

Bright pink, this blend of pinot noir,

arneis and merlot is light bodied

(10% alc/vol), with a floral bouquet

and vibrant strawberry and water-

melon flavours, fresh, slightly sweet

and crisp. $17 l

Light is

all right

Low-alcohol wines

are catching on.

Spy Valley Easy Tiger Marlborough

Sauvignon Blanc 2016

Light bodied, with green-edged la-

vours, this wine (9%/vol) is tasty and

a lot drier than most, with a hint of

passionfruit, appetising acidity and

even a touch of complexity (from

some barrel fermentation). $18

WINE OF THE WEEK

and allow the brine to cool completely.

Place the leg of lamb in a large container and

pour over the brine. Cover and refrigerate over-

night or for up to 48 hours.

Preheat the oven to 180°C. Remove the lamb

from the brine and rub with the salt, pepper, oil

and rosemary leaves. Place on a rack in a roasting

pan, then roast for about 45 minutes to an hour.

Rest, wrapped in foil, for at least 15 minutes

before carving into neat slices.

Serve with spring vegetables, such as baby

carrots, baby potatoes, asparagus, sugar snaps and

fresh garden leaves and mint.

Serves 10.

Wine match: new season’s sauvignon blanc.

SPICED LAMB WITH MANGO CHUTNEY AND YOGHURT

2 backstraps spring lamb

3cm piece of ginger, peeled and crushed

1 tsp cumin seeds

1 tsp ground coriander

1 tsp ground turmeric

1 tsp freshly ground black pepper

1 tsp salt

2 tbsp extra virgin olive oil

4 tbsp mango chutney

½ cup unsweetened Indian or Greek-style yoghurt

½ tsp garam masala

sprigs of fresh coriander

4 large pieces of flatbread – pita, naan or roti

2 tbsp coconut oil

Place the lamb in a shallow dish. Mix the spices,

seasonings and oil. Rub the mixture over the

lamb and leave it for at least an hour or refriger-

ate overnight.

Place the chutney in a bowl.

Spoon the yoghurt into another bowl and dust

with the garam masala. Remove the stalks from

the coriander.

Warm the bread, then wrap it in a clean

napkin.

When ready to cook the lamb, heat a grill pan

or barbecue plate until very hot. Rub a little coco-

nut oil on the spiced lamb backstraps, then place

on the grill. Sear the meat for 3 minutes, then

turn over to cook the other side. When the lamb

starts to firm up but is still a little springy when

pressed with your thumb, remove and allow the

meat to rest, covered with foil and a towel, for

about 10 minutes.

To serve, slice the lamb thinly and pile several

pieces onto the warmed flatbread. Spoon over

the chutney and yoghurt. Sprinkle on the corian-

der. Eat immediately.

Serves 4.

Wine match: syrah. l

Lamb supplied by Coastal Spring Lamb.