watch range for men. In keeping with his
desire to be different, Dordet says he
“wanted to create a new look, of style, of
fantasy, to bring some fresh air”. At the same
time the watch had to be “functional, so a man
can use it in his daily life, including for sport”.
The new model needed a distinctive shape that
could pass the Hermès watchmakers’ key test: it
must be clearly identifiable from 10m. “We played
games with silhouettes. We put the reflection of the shape
on the wall to identify what was inspiring and original.”
The watch also needed to have contemporary straps and
its own typography and numerals.
The result was the H08, which looks fresh and
modern thanks to the “circle within a square” case. It has
the type of pleasing small details that watch obsessives
like to pore over, such as the trademark orange arrow tip
on the seconds hand, which is shorter than normal to
preserve the legibility of the numerals. Most people,
however, will just admire how good the new blue-on-
blue model and the models with the orange strap look.
Dordet admits that when he and his team launch a
product they have no real idea — merely a hunch —
that it will be a success. But the H08 delivered in double-
quick time. “The allocation that, at the start of the finan-
cial year, we forecast we’d sell in one year, we’d sold out
by June.” Overall Hermès watch sales grew by 73 per
cent last year. One reason for the H08’s popularity is thatAbove Laurent Dordet, CEO of Hermès Horloger. Above left
The H08 in PVD-coated titanium with a rubber strap, £6,330,
will be available this summer. Below The new Hermès Kelly
watch in rose gold with diamonds, £67,900, and steel, £3,410‘It has the type of
pleasing small details
that watch obsessives
like to pore over’
it is relatively affordable. It starts at £4,400. That’s a lot of
money for a watch, no doubt, but not a lot of money for
an Hermès product. A basic Kelly bag starts at £7,000,
while limited editions can sell for more than £70,000.
Dordet chose the “decent price point” because, he
concedes, “we know that Hermès is not spontaneously
recognised as a reference watchmaker, especially by men”.
He adds that the £4,000-£8,000 segment is highly
competitive and after the pandemic affordability will be
key for many customers.
Will the H08’s runaway success tempt him to increase
the price? “No, no, no!” What about changing it to appeal
to women? “It’s a man’s watch.”AND FOR WOMEN?
A revamp of the Kelly
(without the waiting list)
Words Jessica DiamondWith a price tag of thousands and a waiting list of years,
the Hermès Kelly bag is, for most of us, the stuff of
dreams. It was designed in the 1930s and renamed in the
1950s after Grace Kelly was photographed carrying one,
which remains one of the greatest pieces of celebrity
endorsement — and free celebrity endorsement at that.
Hermès is well aware of its potency, and the subse-
quent brand extensions around the bag — belts, wallets,
briefcases — have given us a more achievable opportu-
nity to own a piece of this iconic design. In 1975 the Kelly
watch was launched with the watch face on a padlock
shape attached to a leather strap. And now? The latest
version, coming soon, is a watch on a steel or gold
bracelet set with varying amounts of diamonds (from
£3,410). It can also be fixed to a leather cord and worn —
with a dash of insouciance — as a necklace. Which
makes it a brilliant way of owning a bit of the Kelly magic
while we all wait for our bags. ■Clara Tuma
The Sunday Times Style • 33