The Great Outdoors – July 2019

(Ben Green) #1
Cribyn & N escarpment
from Pen y Fan

102 The Great Outdoors July 2019


summits just south of Buxton. I
really wanted to climb them. It
was the last day of our holiday
and it seemed a shame to stick
to a low-level objective, despite
the warnings of ‘arduous
mobility’ from MWIS. So,
after parking in Earl Sterndale,
we soon found ourselves
navigating through an intricate
network of stone walls,
gazing towards Parkhouse
Hill’s arresting profile. It
may be just a hill (and not
even a particularly high one)
but from that angle it really
looked like a mountain, with
a sharply defined ridge and
an improbably spiky summit.
Chrome Hill, some way behind
it, was our main objective.
I’d planned a meandering
but logical circuit taking in two
narrow dales before looping
back to tackle Chrome Hill
from the north-west. The walk
delighted us with its variety.


It teased us by following
creases in the landscape away
from the hills we’d come to
climb. We walked parallel to
the two peaks; their profiles
soon flattened out, became
less extreme, and we caught
glimpses of them every now
and again as we emerged from
another valley. By the time we
finally joined the permissive
footpath over Open Access
land leading directly towards
Chrome Hill, we were ready for
the walk’s finale.
Although the weather
had indeed delivered sunny
intervals, the wind had been
pretty ferocious too. My wife
is much lighter than I am.
Although she’d held her own
on the steeper ground so
far, when we began to climb
Chrome Hill’s remarkable
grassy arête she found herself
having to brace as gust after
gust ripped across, determined

to peel us both from the ridge.
It was the kind of wind that
makes it impossible to breathe


  • the kind of wind you can feel
    in your bones. We staggered
    up the ridge, pausing for a few
    moments at an unexpected
    rock arch that offered a little
    shelter. The summit, when we
    reached it, felt tremendously
    exposed in a way I never would
    have believed possible in the
    Peak District.
    Parkhouse Hill looked
    great from this side, but it also
    looked even more exposed and
    we decided against extending
    our walk up its scrambly arête.
    On a day with gusts that stood
    a real chance of picking you up
    and hurling you through the
    air, it felt like the right choice.
    “Sunny intervals indeed,”
    Hannah said as we returned to
    the car; but despite missing the
    second summit we’d had a day
    to remember.


Further information

Maps: OS 1:25,000
Explorer sheet OL24
(Peak District, White Peak)

Transport: High Peak
service 442 runs from
Ashbourne to Buxton via
Earl Sterndale. Details from
bustimes.org

i


Information: Buxton
Visitor Centre (01298
25106) visitbuxton.co.uk

[Captions clockwise from top]
Hannah contemplating the
route ahead; Views from near
the summit; A classic view down
to Parkhouse Hill and beyond
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