The Great Outdoors – July 2019

(Ben Green) #1
Cribyn & N escarpment
from Pen y Fan

86 The Great Outdoors July 2019


heatwave – and the light on
the water and through the
trees completely transformed
the mood.
I parked near Balvraid and
took the track through the
farmyard where I immediately
hit the first obstacle of the
day – a bovine roadblock:
cows and calves stretched out
enjoying the sun and in no
mood to move aside. A swift
bypass and I was into mixed
woodland, dappled light and
shade, a cuckoo’s incessant call,
and the constant purr and buzz
of darting dragonflies, those
helicopter gunships of the
insect world.
The next problem was
finding the turn-off into
the woods where a small
suspension bridge gives access
to an overgrown path and then
the open hillside. I missed it


on the first pass but quickly
realised my mistake and
retraced my steps to find the
faint path.
The lack of footfall here
is evidenced by the depth
of the undergrowth, but
once over the rickety stile the
terrain opens out and I headed
back under the power lines
to reach the start of the long,
grassy ridge.
Beinn a’ Chapuill is one of
those hills that never seems to
get any closer; every new rise
is a cruel trick. It’s easy walking
but there’s a feeling the route
is being added to as you are
climbing. The summit area is
typically Graham as well, with
lots of possible spots vying for
the highest point; but at least
with the perfect visibility it was
easier to be sure.
For the record, the main

top is not marked on the map.
The name Beinn a’ Chapuill is
attributed to another lower top
off to the western edge of this
lochan-studded confusion.
As I sat enjoying a backdoor
view of Beinn Sgritheall, I
was surprised to be joined by
another walker, sweating and
panting his way up the last
few metres. He had intended
to go on to take in the Munro
but had found the pathless
ascent in the heat unexpectedly
brutal, and was now having
second thoughts.
The best route of descent is
off the western rim but it needs
care. From the 742m summit,
I dropped down beside a small
stream then turned north to
follow the waters of the Allt Eas
Mor Chul an Duin down to the
forest and the short stretch of
track back to the glen.

Further information

Maps: OS 1:50,000
Landranger sheet 33 (Loch
Alsh, Glen Shiel & Loch Hourn)

Transport: Buses glenelg.
co.uk/visitor-information/
travel-information/glenelg-to-
kyle-bus-service/ or phone 01599
511384 (buses on Monday,
Tuesday & Friday only)

i


Information: glenelg.co.uk/
visitor-information

[Captions clockwise from top]
Looking back down the ridge;
The cut-off down to the bridge;
Lochan below the summit
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