Scale aviation modeller international

(Nora) #1
the surface after the first coat,
such as dust, hair, or scratches,
especially where I have filled and
sanded parts to blend them in. I
started with 600-grit sandpaper,
moving progressively on to finer
grades, working slowly and
frequently, and checking the
surface under a strong light.
I removed any dust that had
settled into the recessed panel
lines with a brush, and I was ready
to start painting. I started with
the olive drab anti-glare panel,
which, once dry, was given a coat
of Matt Cote before being masked
off. I also prepared the tail fins,
which were airbrushed red and
white on the outer sides. I opted

to paint the code letter ”E” using
a mask cut from Post-It notes,
since the paint on the decal sheet
was a bit on the bright side and I
was afraid the colour would not
match the paint I was using.
Now the time came to add the
metallic paint. For natural metal
aircraft, I prefer Alclad II lacquers.
This paint requires a gloss black
undercoat to give the colour enough
depth; I used Tamiya’s TS-14 Gloss
Black because it’s tough and fast
drying. While the larger areas were
sprayed straight from the can, I
decanted some paint and airbrushed

it into the harder-to-reach areas.
This surface preparation was the
most time-consuming process in
this build, involving numerous
cycles of sanding and priming until
I achieved an acceptable result.
Despite my best efforts, I can
always find another tiny hair,
a speckle of dust, or a minor
scratch, making perfection almost
impossible. Therefore, I always
prioritize the focal areas that
will reflect the light and reveal
any blemishes, such as the upper
sides of the fuselage and wings.

I started
with a basecoat of
Polished Aluminium.
I found that a misty
application works better
than spraying in the direction of
the airflow, which leaves visible
faint streaks. Alclad II paints are
touch-dry after a few minutes.
They are also pretty tough and do
not pull up with Tamiya masking

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