levels so you’ll know what trees
might be suited to the conditions,
or if your soil needs amendments.
Next, check the soil quality in
your planting area. Jim Barbori-
nas, an International Society of
Arboriculture certified arborist
who runs Urban Forestry Services
in Mount Vernon, Washington,
says dig at least two feet down, or
use a soil probe, to look for clay or
backfill. Urban yards are often
filled with gravel that will need tobe replaced. You can alleviate clay
soil by backfilling around the root
ball with a mix of one part com-
post to two parts existing soil.
The ideal tree species depends
on soil, climate, sun, and space.
To narrow your choices, visit the
Arbor Day Foundation’s Tree
Wizard tool. When considering
size and growth, your
tree should still fit com-
fortably in the space 25
years from now, says Bar-
borinas. “When you’re
browsing trees, look for a
good single leader; well-
spaced lateral limbs;
fat, healthy buds; and no
physical damage.”STEP 3:PREP AND PLANT
/ Measure the diame-
ter of the root ball, then
rototill a circle five
times the diameter across, to give
your roots more space to grow.
With a round-point shovel, dig
a dish-shaped hole that’s twice
the diameter of the root ball and
deep enough that only the tree’s
root f lare will be above ground.
Remove any plastic or wire from
the root ball. If it’s covered with
burlap, you can leave that in the
hole after unwrapping it. Place
the sapling in the planting hole.
Check that the tree is plumb, gen-tly backfill, compact the soil, and
water the tree—the soil should feel
moist but not muddy. Spread 2 to 3
inches of mulch over the planting
hole, leaving the root f lare, where
roots meet the stem, exposed.
Avoid using tree stakes, as
they can inhibit wide root growth
that’s essential for stability. Most
balled trees don’t need them, bare-
root trees often do, and container
trees sometimes do. If your tree
requires staking, remove stakes
after two to three months, or
after the first growing season at
the latest.STEP 4:WATER YOUR NEW TREE /
One of the most common mistakes
is overwatering. It’s not unusual
to dig out a dead plant and find
a puddle of water in the bottom
of the planting hole. Barborinas
prescribes watering based on size.
Set your hose to a trickle over the
root ball. Let it run 10 minutes for
each inch of the trunk’s diameter;
for conifers, let it run two minutes
for every foot of height.
Water weekly, then adjust for
the soil. Clay traps water, requir-
ing less; loose, sandy soils drain
fast. To tell if your tree is getting
enough water, stick your finger
in the planting hole and wiggle
it around. It should be moist, not
wet or dry.WHAT YOU NEED:- ¾" 3-strand twisted nylon rope
- Swing seat (you can make or
purchase one) - Tree limb at least 6" in diameter
*If you order online, some merchants will braid eye loops on
your rope for a fee. Otherwise, go to our website to learn how
to do it yourself: http://www.popularmechanics.com/rope-swingHAVE THE PERFECT TREE FOR A ROPE SWING?
Here’s our recommended method for hanging a swing without harming the tree.HOW TO DO IT:
Find your spot at least
three feet from the
trunk, but not so far
that it sags under your
weight. Prepare your
rope with an eye splice*
to make a loop in one
end. Toss the eye splice
over the limb and posi-
tion the rope. Feed the
plain end through the eye
splice, then pull it snug
around the limb. Repeat
with the second rope,then hang your swing at
the desired height.WHY THIS WORKS:
During use, the weight on
the swing keeps the rope
snug around the limb,
preventing movement,
friction, and damage to
the bark. When not in
use, the loop around the
limb is relaxed, which
allows the tree to grow
without strangling or
girdling it.LONG-HANDLE
SPADE +BETTER
FOR:General
digging, digging
clean-edged holes,
cutting hard soil,
and levering up
clumps of dirt.BRAD FORD (ILLUSTRATION)
September 2019 31