Container Gardening Complete

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Job:06-700309 Title: CPS - Container Gardening Complete

700309 - ContainerGardens_001-272_FINAL.indd 114 6/5/17 3:00 PM
Job:06-700309 Title: CPS - Container Gardening Complete
Job:06-700309 Title: CPS - Container Gardening Complete


700309 - ContainerGardens_001-272_FINAL.indd 115 5/24/17 11:13 AM

114 chapter 2

About Fruit Pollination
If you’ve done everything right and the plants
flower prolifically but don’t bear fruit, poor
pollination is probably to blame. To solve the
problem, first make sure you have the correct
pollination partner for your plant. Remember,
many fruits are not self-fertile and without
another variety with which to swap pollen, fruit
production will be minimal or nonexistent. Next,
most fruits require insects to move pollen from

flower to flower, and some plants rely heavily
on certain pollinators. Blueberries, for example,
are best pollinated by bumblebees. To ensure
the presence of ample pollinators, also include
plenty of flowering plants in your container
garden. Surround potted fruit trees, shrubs, vines,
brambles, and herbaceous fruits with lots of
annuals, perennials, herbs, and other pollinator-
attracting flowers. The more pollinators you have
around, the more fruit you’ll be able to grow.

Encourage pollinators, including European honeybees and North American native bee species such as this
bumblebee, by including lots of flowering plants near your fruiting trees, shrubs, and brambles.

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Designing and Planting Your Containers 115

PLANTING YOUR
CONTAINERS
Once the plants for your containers have been
carefully selected and your pots have been filled
with soil, it’s time to get planting, following a
simple rule of thumb: arrange first, plant second.
Keep the plants in their nursery pots and
arrange them on top of the soil before doing
any actual planting—this allows the plants to
be moved around and reorganized. Confirm the
mature height of all the varieties by reading the
pot tag or checking online before settling on
where to place each plant. As you shuffle the
plants around, keep a particular design style in
mind, then, when satisfied with their placement,
start the planting process.
When slipping a plant out of its nursery pot,
carefully put one hand over the top of the pot
and weave your fingers around either side of the
stem. Use the other hand to flip the pot over and
gently knock the mass of soil and roots out of the
container and into your waiting hand. Once the
plant is out of its nursery pot, inspect the roots
prior to planting. If they are circling around inside
of the container, loosen them prior to planting.
Skipping this step means the roots will continue
to circle around in a ball instead of growing out
into the soil and filling their new, larger home.
To loosen pot-bound roots, use your fingers, a
soil knife, or a trowel to gently rip apart the outer
surface of the root mass. Don’t be afraid of tearing
the fine root hairs and even a few of the bulkier
roots. Doing so only encourages a more branched
root structure that will more quickly spread out
into the potting soil. If the roots are extremely
pot-bound, you may need a pair of pruning shears
or even a small folding saw to loosen them.

Plant each plant to the same depth it was
inside its nursery pot. You may need to add more
soil to your container as you plant, or perhaps
take some of the soil out to make room for all of
the plants.
If you’re planting seeds directly into containers,
study the seed packet prior to planting to determine
seed spacing, planting depth, and timing.
Once everything has been planted, water the
container thoroughly. If you find the potting mix
settles too far and exposes the tops of root balls
or drops way below the upper rim of the pot, add
a bit more potting mix to the top, but be careful
not to pile it around plant stems or you could risk
girdling the plants.

Before planting your containers, arrange and rearrange
the nursery pots on the soil surface until you’re
satisfied with the layout. Only then should you begin
planting your arrangement.

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