the times Saturday May 28 2022Travel 49
Need to
knowmortalised in John Wayne films — not
that this big-screen fame did the locals
much good: poverty is rife among the
Navajo, and the 18 families that still live
within the park have neither running
water nor electricity.
Our last night was in Gallup, New
Mexico, a windswept town beside a rail-
way track that left us uninspired and real-
ising how tired we were — RVing is an
incredible adventure, but it’s not relaxing.
Then, finally, on to Albuquerque, where it
was time to leave the RV and head north to
visit family. And what a wrench to leave
Harvey behind (of course we named him).
Would we do it again? In a heartbeat.
We’ve already decided. You can’t beat an
RV holiday for the freedom, fun and crazy
Americanness of it all. And next time we’ll
know exactly what never ever to do.Francisca Kellett was
a guest of Original
Travel, which has
seven nights’ RV hire
from £1,615pp for a
family of four, including
flights and two tours
(originaltravel.co.uk)We soon adapted to the pace, which was
slow, but that was the point. Travelling in
an RV is all about taking your time, seeing
as much as you fancy, and being
spontaneous. My husband and I took it in
turns to drive, each day revealing more
gobsmacking views. Brits are quick to
judge Americans for their lack of passports
— just 37 per cent of the population own
one — but when you spend a week driving
around these parts you can understand
why. Every bend revealed something
extraordinary: soaring red cliffs; layers of
mountains streaked orange, yellow and
green; vast empty plains cut through with
just one arrow-straight road. The girls
would listen to music, read or play games
on their tablets, and sometimes we’d all
sing along to a strange mix of John Denver,
One Direction and Willie Nelson — and
I’d think, “I could do this for ever.”
We took impulsive detours, such as the
one to Coral Pink Sand Dunes State Park,
where we headed out on foot — without
any water, like idiots — to leap about the
salmon-pink dunes in the searing sun,
until our eldest took a funny turn and we
had a long, nail-biting trudge back to the
shade and water in our RV.
Nothing serious, thank goodness, so on
we went, to Lake Powell, a strange, other-
worldly place where the barren mountains
drop down to a glassy network of lakes.
That day was spent on a boat tour on
the jade-green Colorado River, slicing
past 1,000ft scarlet cliffs and alongHorseshoe Bend — famed for featuring as
a Microsoft screensaver.
On we drove, across Arizona, for more
staggering russet mountain views and the
new excitement of tumbleweed, which
would hurl itself into the road in groups,
like lemmings. Don’t, by the way, brake
suddenly in an RV. You can drive straight
over tumbleweed and braking only
unleashes all kinds of chaos — books,
cups and bags shooting about; general
screaming and admonishment. And the
ominous swoosh of the black water on
board is a sound I won’t miss. Then we ar-
rived at Monument Valley Tribal Park and
the awe shot up another level. This is
Navajo land, so we opted for a community-
run tour (RVs are not allowed on the rocky
roads), during which our guide drove us
around the bonkers rock formations im-Las Vegas Strip Death Valley’s BadlandsAmerican road trip adventure
more brilliant
US journeys
Florida Keys
Many people assume the Keys are a
scattering of tropical islands only
accessible by boat. In fact they are
seamlessly linked to the US mainland,
and each other, by Florida’s glorious
Overseas Highway. Your drive starts
in the swampy, atmospheric
Everglades, then passes through
laid-back Key Largo. Include an
overnight stay in pretty Islamorada
or Marathon, where you can feed
hawksbills at the Turtle Hospital.
Then it’s a wind-in-your-hair cruise
to raucous Key West, via Seven Mile
Bridge, where the Caribbean Sea
dazzles on both sides.
Details Seven nights’ room only from
£2,229pp, including flights and car
hire (americaasyoulikeit.com)Boston to Cape Cod
The car-rental sat-nav wants to whisk
you out of Boston on Highway 3,
delivering you to Sandwich — first
town on the sweep of Cape Cod Bay
— in one-hour flat. Ignore it and
follow the 3A, through mom-and-pop
seaside towns and wispy-grassed
nature reserves. Once you reach the
base of the curve (the cape looks like
a strong-arm flexing), follow the 6A
as it hugs the coastal “biceps”, taking
in lobster shacks, pretty lighthouses,
even the Mayflower Beach as it goes.
On your return trip drive Highway 28
along the south coast, through blue-
blooded JFK country at Hyannisport.
Details Seven nights’ room only from
£767pp, including flights; car hire
extra (virginholidays.co.uk)Pacific Coast Highway, California
Think of this iconic route and you’ll
picture the cinematic scenes: soft-top
classic cars, lofty redwoods, surf
beaches, perhaps a seal or two; and
the arc of Bixby Bridge near Big Sur,
with its wind-battered arches (and the
school run for stars of Big Little Lies).
Drive this baby north-to-south, not
vice versa, so that the coastal scenery
is closest to you on the right, and
dedicate at least three days to the trip,
with pitstops in maritime Monterey,
San Luis Obispo wine country and
historic Santa Barbara. You could
drive it in six hours, but why on earth
would you?
Details Eight nights’ room only from
£2,990pp, including flights and car
hire (elegantresorts.co.uk)
Katie BowmanZion National Park in Utah3
ALAMY; GETTY IMAGESA Cape Cod lighthouse