The Sunday Times - UK (2022-05-29)

The new foundation rules

KEEP IT REAL

Thicker foundation formulas can dry out skin

and draw attention to fine lines, so embrace

your real skin instead. The make-up artist

Zoë Taylor suggests opting for sheer over full

coverage — something dewy but long-lasting.

Trinny London BFF Serum De-Stress

( 10 £39) is a super-sheer tinted moisturising

serum with hyaluronic acid to hydrate skin.

FOR DRY SKIN

If dryness is an issue, look for something even

lighter. “Find a hydrating skincare formula

with light coverage,” says the make-up artist

Val Garland. “That way skin still looks real.”

Try Chanel Les Beiges Water-Fresh Tint

( 11 £51), a super-hydrating concealer-

foundation hybrid that feels like a thirst-

quenching serum but gives just the right

amount of skin-enhancing coverage. Or

Hermès Plein Air Natural Enhancing

Complexion Balm ( 12 £65), a grown-up BB

cream that hydrates and protects your skin

with evening primrose oil, hyaluronic acid

and an SPF30. Plus, it gives enough coverage

for a just-back-from-a-bracing-walk glow.

FOR SKIN THAT’S PRONE TO REDNESS

To counter any redness, try a colour corrector.

Garland’s go-to is Dr Jart+ Cicapair Tiger

Grass Color Correcting Treatment ( 13 £15),

a green cream that instantly neutralises

flushed cheeks. A little goes a long way,

though; the make-up artist Rose Gallagher

advises warming up the tiniest amount

between your fingers so it melts down before

applying only to areas of redness. Foundation-

wise, “go for something that’s waterproof,

oil-free and long-lasting”, Barnes says. “That

way when you do flush, once the redness has

subsided your make-up won’t have dissolved.”

The cult It Cosmetics Your Skin But Better

CC+ ( 14 £33) now comes in an oil-free

version. The original was created following

brand founder Jamie Kern Lima’s own

struggle with rosacea and gives full coverage

(check out @rosegallagher using it on

Instagram to see the before and after), but

feels as though you have nothing on your skin.

FOR PIGMENTATION

If you want to hide any pigmentation, try

Garland’s pinpoint concealing technique.

“Using a precise pointed brush such as

Mykitco 1.11 Pro My Tiny Liner Brush

[ 15 £14] and a full-coverage concealer such

as L’Oréal Paris Infallible 24H More Than

Concealer ( 16 £10), cover only the visible

pigmentation. Then, using either a sponge or

a small buffing brush, push and gently buff

away the edges to blur into and mimic the rest

of your skin. Next, set the area with powder

— voilà!” Jones Road The Face Pencil

( 17 £23), created by Bobbi Brown, is designed

to correct discolouration. She recommends

using it over foundation to create an even,

all-over colour. “Take a pencil that matches

your natural skin tone,” she says, “scribble it

over foundation on any areas where you want

more uniformity and gently pat it in. If you

have darker pigmentation, take a lighter-

colour pencil and put over foundation to

lighten discolouration.”

BRILLIANT BLENDING

If you find make-up settles into fine lines

or looks cakey, the solution is simple. The

pros recommend swapping finger blending

for brushes. “Using a firm, stubby brush to

really buff in your concealer will keep your

make-up looking soft and help it to last

longer,” Barnes says. Try Morphe M536

Under Eye Bullet Brush ( 18 £10).

THE RULE OF THREE

Both Barnes and the make-up artist Mary

Greenwell swear by this simple equation

for more mature skin: one lightweight

foundation, one heavy concealer the same

shade as your foundation buffed onto areas of

discolouration — the celebrity make-up artist

Nikki Wolff recommends KVD Good Apple

Lightweight Full Coverage Concealer

( 19 £23) — and one light-reflecting concealer

a shade or two lighter than your foundation

to brighten the under-eye area. Try Sensai

Highlighting Concealer ( 20 £32), which

instantly covers dark areas but is packed with

botanical oils so it doesn’t dry skin out.

PATIENCE IS A VIRTUE

“If you apply too many products they won’t

absorb properly,” says Barnes, who advises

letting your skincare settle for at least five

minutes before applying make-up. There are

two skincare products that every midlifer

should have in their kit, according to the

pros. First, an eye cream. The make-up artist

Bobbi Brown applies this before eye

make-up to hydrate the area and stop the

product from creasing. Peter Thomas Roth

Instant FirmX Eye ( 2 £32) has had more

than 3.3 million views on TikTok thanks to

users raving about its temporary tightening

effect around the under-eye area, plus it’s

packed with peptides to help reduce

puffiness. The other power product is an

SPF. Using sun protection every day is

non-negotiable, whatever your age, and

Supergoop! Mineral Sheer Screen SPF30

( 3 £34) is a whipped formula that doubles

up as a make-up primer.

HYDRATE! HYDRATE! HYDRATE!

If you don’t already use a serum, now is the

time to get acquainted with the lightweight

hydrators. “Serums are especially important

for more mature skin,” Darden says. “I always

recommend adding a hydrating serum before

sunscreen in the morning and before

moisturiser at night for a boost of hydration.”

Her top pick? Dr Nigma Serum No 1

( 5 £150), which is filled with hyaluronic acid,

marine peptides and plant stem cells to

deeply hydrate and plump the skin. Or try

N°1 de Chanel Revitalising Serum ( 6 £90).

It has a gel-like texture, contains the range’s

signature red camellia flower extract and

works to improve skin elasticity. Seal all that

hydration in with a lightweight moisturiser

such as CeraVe Facial Moisturising Lotion

( 7 £15), which now comes with SPF50.

BEAT THE HEAT

Oh, hi menopause, is that you heating up my

face? If you’re prone to hot flushes or find that

your skin dries out during the day, reach for

a moisturising mist to help you cool down and

hydrate up. Curél Deep Moisture Spray

( 8 £19.50) and Dermalogica Hyaluronic

Ceramide Mist ( 9 £45) both have skin-

barrier-boosting ceramides that will help to

rehydrate hot, tired complexions.

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Paul Westlake/The Licensing Project

The Sunday Times Style • 35