AeroModeller – June 2018

36 AeroModeller - June 2018

Free Plan

struts. Dad went one step further by

building a temporary box jig around the

fuselage with correctly spaced tubes,

to ensure the ends of the wires were in

exactly the right places.

If you elect to use the wire in tubing

wing retaining, then ensure the wing

tubing is a slightly larger inner diameter

than the wire outer as there is a need for

a little ‘free play’ to allow the wires to be

inserted. Dad put some small pieces of

thin micro-ply (around 1/64 inch) each side

of W1 where the wing tubes are housed to

strengthen this stressed area. For a more

durable model you may want to alter the

wing fi xing to a more traditional fore and

aft wires with rubber bands over the wing

top. Similarly, do think of the alterations

you will need to make for a heavier wing

loaded RC version.

This is a classic design which

will delight with a sprightly fl ying

performance. Before you fl y do check

that the fl ying surfaces are aligned

correctly and that the CG (Centre of

Gravity) is in the range shown, ideally

towards the front. If necessary add

weight inside the cowl to bring the CG

forward or the performance may be too

sprightly!

Original March 1954 Building

Instructions

Anthony Fokker's famous parasol wing

fi ghter, the D.VIII was not altogether a

successful fi ghting machine: but to the

aeromodeller it represents the perfect

proportions for a true scale model. Large

tail area, low slung wheels for stability

and good prop clearance, useful high

lift aerofoil section and simple fuselage.

Against it there is the lack of dihedral and

an awkward strut arrangement; but each

of these points is ably dealt with in the 22

in. model given full-size over four pages.

This is strictly for fun fl ying. The power/

weight ratio with an E.D. Baby diesel at

full revs is suffi cient to make the Fokker

tear the sky into shreds as it spirals

and cavorts in any and every direction,

going upwards all the time, and when

the power cuts after a long engine run,

the ensuing glide is fl at but fast. Right

thrust is essential and is "built-in," right

I would suggest building the centre section followed by the port panel,

before moving everything to complete the starboard panel. The trailing edge

of the truncated central W1 is packed up. This is a photo from the larger

model build which is slightly different - on Ron’s version no spars are added

initially, but use some scrap spar stock for alignment. Top and bottom spars

are added once the wing span is completed, with the top spar being straight.

Remember the Fokker D.VIII ends up with a fl at top spar of the wing, and a

slight amount of washout (trailing edge is slightly raised towards tip) is built

in when the leading edge sheeting is applied – you may want to jig the wing

to ensure this is even as you don’t want a twisted wing!

A few scale additions such as machine guns will make a big difference to

the look of your model. The cockpit coaming was from brown electric wire

sheathing. A pilot would fi nish the model off nicely!

A small clear dropper tank is screwed to the front bulkhead beside the

engine. It is fi lled via one of the circular cooling holes in the front of the cowl.

Much as the inverted engine looks better, you might want to consider an

upright fi xing for ease of starting.

FOKKER D8 FREE PLAN.indd 38 26/04/2018 14:47