Extreme Airports // 89
to the capital. The two-storey terminal
building is small and basic, but when
the largest visitors carry fewer than 20
passengers nothing more is needed.
Around 20 flights are likely to operate
into LUA on a normal day, although
upwards of 50 are possible during the
peak season. The complete lack of roads
to the area dictates that almost everyone –
and all the essential supplies – are airlifted
in. When operations are at their peak,
activity becomes rather hectic with one
aircraft immediately replacing another
on the tiny apron. At times the cycle
continues almost non-stop. There is no
air traffic control, but an aerodrome flight
information service (AFIS) is available
to advise pilots of the local weather
conditions and to coordinate aircraft
position reporting.
A narrow path runs along the highest
part of the airport boundary, enabling
visitors to look down on the frantic
operations on the apron and the coming
and goings on the steep runway. The rest
of the scenery is awe-inspiring – tall craggy
peaks top deep valleys, while low buildings
with colourful roofs line the runway edges.
Lukla is home to little more than 500
residents, but numbers are swelled by
trekkers intent on making the two-day hike
to Namche Bazaar (where most Everest
Sherpas are based) or beyond. Most
airline passengers linger in the town only
long enough to prepare for their onward
journey towards the peak, but a few small
lodges and shops cater for visitors by
providing Western-standard goods
and services.
Leaving Lukla
The Nepalese pilots’ guide warns that
during the monsoon season (June to
August), the airport is likely to be closed
for 50% of the time as operation under
visual flight rules will not be possible. The
terminal can get packed when clouds
descend and flights are cancelled,
sometimes for days on end – even a week’s
delay is not unheard of. Most passengers
wait patiently or attempt to negotiate a
seat on one of the first departures. Once
the visibility finally improves and the Twin
Otters and Dorniers start appearing from
down the valley again, everyone breathes
a sigh of relief and the jostling for the
right to get out begins. Only then do the
Nepalese Police conduct their simple
yet thorough inspection of departing
passengers and their bags, because there
are no sophisticated security systems.
Once passengers board an aircraft
and it taxies to the top of Runway 26, the
ride out is much akin to going back down
the ski-jump. The aircraft line up on the
flat section of runway as close to the wall
as possible and, with full power applied,
launch down the 11.7% slope. There is no
stopping, no turning back. Once started,
a take-off must be performed because
the only alternative is a 2,000ft (610m)
drop off a cliff edge. But the downhill run
helps build airspeed, and few accidents
occur on departure. The rest of the flight
back to Kathmandu seems rather tame
in comparison. But most passengers will
breathe a sigh of relief at conquering the
world’s most hazardous airport, and some
might even have scaled Everest too.
ACCIDENTS
Date Aircraft Phase Souls on board Fatalities
May 27, 2017 Summit Air Let 410 Landing 3 2
September 26, 2013 Air Dynasty Eurocopter AS350B Landing 4 0
October 12, 2010 Sita Air Dornier 228 Landing 14 0
October 8, 2008 Yeti Airlines DHC-6 Twin Otter Approach 19 18
June 30, 2005 Gorkha Airlines Dornier 228 Landing 12 0
October 1, 2004 Sita Air Dornier 228 Landing unknown 0
May 25, 2004 Yeti Airlines DHC-6 Twin Otter Approach 3 3
September 26, 1992 Royal Nepal Airlines Harbin Y-12 Take off 14 0
June 9, 1991 Royal Nepal Airlines DHC-6 Twin Otter Landing 17 0
October 15, 1973 Royal Nepal Airlines DHC-6 Twin Otter Landing 6 0
AIRLINES
Nepal Airlines
Simrik Airlines
Tara Air
Sita Air
Summit Air
ABOVE: All
departures must
be on Runway 24.
FAR TOP LEFT:
When the weather
is good, aircraft
arrive and depart
within minutes.
ABOVE LEFT:
Runway 06/24 has
a gradient of 11.7%.
LEFT: Robust
DHC-6 Twin Otters
are the mainstay of
operations.
LEFT: Royal Nepal
Airlines originally
served the
unsurfaced airstrip.
(AirTeamImages
Collection)
LEFT: The
Himalayan
mountains dwarf a
diminutive 19-seat
Twin Otter.
LUKLA
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