Pilot – June 2018

(Rick Simeone) #1

64 | Pilot June 2018 | pilotweb.aero


shapes for both sides of the nose
of each rib. You have to lightly
sand the side of the biscuit that is
to be glued on, or the glue won’t
take−aircraft plywood has a thin
protective coating.
Eventually I was ready to
assemble my first tailplane rib.
The glue I am choosing to use
on my Wot is the kind that isn’t
coloured; Aerolite 306. (The other
kind is red and works in two equal
parts like epoxy resin. It used to
be called Aerodux and is now
called Prefere 4050 Resin and
5750 Hardener. It isn’t acidic, so
I’ll be using it later in the project,
near metal fittings). Aerolite
comes as a powder in a tin and
acid in a bottle. You mix the
powder with water and can either
apply the resulting paste to one
side of the joint and some acid to
the other side, or mix acid and
paste together. If you mix them,
you have very little time in which
to apply the glue and then clamp
both sides of the joint together,
because once the glue starts to
harden it loses its strength. I

learned to use it mixed on the
previous Wot project and others,
and prefer it used in this way for
making lots of small joints.
Preparing the small batch of
Aerolite required for something
like a tailplane rib is quite an art.
I use a small wooden spatula and
the base of a disposable plastic
cup. Delicately dribble in a small
quantity of water, then, using a
plastic spoon, add about a quarter
of a teaspoon of powder. When
mixed it should be about the
consistency of pouring cream−
and you have to make allowances
for adding more thin liquid with
the acid. The quantity of acid,
ideally, is a single drop, which
gives a relatively slow ‘set’. Two
drops won’t weaken the glue, but
does give less time for applying it
before it starts to go off. I make
periodic tests on scrap plywood to
ensure that my gluing techniques
really are working; the test is
(after an overnight set), when
pulled apart, it’s the wood that
fails, not the glue. I made the ribs
in winter, which gives a slower
set, but still needed on average
two successive glue batches
per rib. This wasn’t me running
out of glue, it was the batch
showing signs of setting before
I had finished.
So, having mixed a batch, I’d
spatula glue on to each end of
each piece of lattice, spread glue
under each plywood biscuit and
then assemble everything. Next,
before the glue has a chance
to set, it all has to be stapled
together. I use a hand stapler
from B&Q and it’s quite an art
(again) to get each staple through
the biscuit and squarely into
the stripwood under it. This bit
requires both speed and accuracy.
Tip: paint an arrow on the head of
the stapler to show exactly where
the staple emerges.
Once secured with staples,
you can lift the rib out of the
jig. The glue will have set, but
not set hard, so it isn’t difficult.
After leaving the rib overnight
for the glue to gain full strength,
the next task is to remove the
staples. I do this with a sharpened
spatula eased under one end of
a staple, then long nose pliers to
lever out the rest. Now biscuits
can be glued on the other side
of the rib. I use butterfly clamps
rather than staples for this.

Feature | The slow-build Wot


THIS PAGE, TOP TO BOTTOM:
marking, sawing, sanding and
installing one part of the a wing
rib lattice
Free download pdf