Scale aviation modeller international

a wash in the wheel and airbrake

bays, as photographs show these

aeroplanes to have been fairly

well looked after, and perhaps my

aircraft had just been cleaned ready

for the annual AOC’s inspection.

FINISHING OFF

Now it was just a matter of adding

various last-minute details. Firstly

aerials: a good selection is provided

in the kit, and the instructions

indicate which ones to use with

which option. But as with many

long-serving types, aerial fit varied

with time, so I’d advise finding a

photo of your subject if you can. I’d

also advise you to decide on this

early; I found that a number of the

aerials needed locating holes.

Checking back in the

instructions, there was no

indication of any holes to drill, but it

is possible that there are flashed-

over holes inside some parts. I’m

still not entirely sure my aerial fit

is completely accurate for XW266,

but it is certainly representative

of a mid-1970s RAF T2/T4A.

Next to be added was the

undercarriage. One issue with

Harrier models is getting all

five wheels (don’t forget there

are two wheels on the rear

undercarriage unit) on the ground

together. Many use the method

I employed, which is to install

the nosewheel and outriggers,

and when these are set, install

the main (rear) undercarriage,

adjusting the height as needed.

The outrigger units were a

simple, positive fit. The nosewheel

was reasonably straightforward,

although the instructions are

unclear as to exactly how and

where Part K28 fits. In the end I

decided to leave it out, on the basis

that it’s in the nosewheel bay,

so its absence won’t be obvious.

I appreciate that this approach

will not suit all modellers, but I

defy anyone who is not a Harrier

expert – and who has not read this

article – to notice the omission.

The locating lug on the rear

wheel unit was reduced in height

to enable adjustment. When the

rest of the undercarriage was set

the unit was simply fixed in place

with tube cement – this has a

longer setting time and thus allows

for adjustment – and the model

placed on its wheels, allowing

the rear undercarriage to find

its own height. In fact, I think it

may have been spot-on anyway,

even without any adjustment,

but I cannot be sure of that.

So far so good, then I

hit a problem with the rear

undercarriage doors. The two main

doors in the kit are designed to be

fitted open, but on the real aircraft

they were usually only open when

the gear was cycling up or down,

remaining shut on the ground. So

having removed the locating lugs

I checked the fit and realised they

did not fit in the closed position at

all. My solution was to add a central

strip of scrap plastic to support

the central joint, then a shim of

plastic card along each edge.

The Harrier has two prominent

wind vanes, which indicate drift to

the pilot, particularly in the hover.

These are provided in the kit as

Part K22. The Eduard interior set

provides a replacement for one

only, but I decided against using

this, partly for consistency, and

partly because the kit part looks

better than the replacement,

which, like many etched parts

looks too two-dimensional.

After adding these I added the

stores, canopies, and lights. I have

shown the main canopies closed.

Admittedly it does seem a shame

to partially conceal all the interior

detail. However, the canopies

are very clear, so not too much is

lost; side-opening canopies are

more difficult to attach and keep

attached. I also really like the shape

of the two-seat Harrier with the

canopies closed. The rear canopy

and rear-seat windscreen needed a

slight adjustment to achieve a good

fit, but otherwise the glazing fits

very well in the closed position.

The kit supplies a refuelling

probe as an option. I left this off,

partly because most photographs

do not show it fitted, and partly

because it is suitable for a Sea

Harrier, but not a trainer, as

both the shape and length

were different on a Harrier.

And now, the navigation lights

were attached in place after a

quick coat of Tamiya clear red and

green, and my T-bird was done.

CONCLUSION

If you want a two-seat Harrier in 1/48

scale this is the only game in town,

and it is a very good kit. It provides

plenty of options, the detail and fit

are (with exceptions mentioned)

what you would expect in a modern

kit, and the decals are excellent.

Two main areas let this kit down.

One is the parts carried forward from

the Sea Harrier kits, which means

the same fit issues with the wings,

and the inclusion of inappropriate

inner stores pylons. The other is

the instructions, which have many

strange omissions and contradictions.

Of course, experienced modellers

will be able to work out the problems

(and I hope this article has been of

help) but such things mar the quality

of an otherwise excellent kit.

Once finished, it really captures

the character of the type, and looks

every inch a two-seat Harrier that

any modeller will be pleased to add

to their collection. And I thank Lucky

Model and Kinetic for supplying

the sample for me to build.

REFERENCES

• BAe/McDonnell Douglas Harrier,
  Andy Evans, Crowood, 1998


• Scalemates website: http://www.
  scalemates.com


• IPMS(UK) Harrier Special
  Interest Group: http://www.
  harriersig.org.uk/index.htm

GRATEFUL THANKS TO

• Alfie Bass, IPMS(UK) Technical
  Advisory Service;


• IPMS(UK) Harrier Special
  Interest Group, Particularly Nick
  Greenall and Graham James.

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