Scale Aviation Modeller International 08.2018

(Nora) #1
PAINTING AND DECALS
I did the underside in Xtracolor
X140 FS36622 Light Grey, followed
by X29 RAF Light Stone for the
Sand, X2 RAF Dark Earth for the
Dark Brown, and X110 FS
Dark Green. I used rolls of Blu-tack
to provide the fairly hard edged
demarcation seen on these aircraft.
I allowed a little overspray where
the dark green goes from the
fuselage to the vertical tail as this is
evident on pictures of the real thing.
The bare metal areas at the
hot end were masked and painted
with various shades of my current
favourite metal finish, AK’s
Xtreme Metal range. I would have
applied some of the “burnt area”
decals I made for the -J build, but
my printer chose to suffer from
terminally blocked heads, so that
may have to wait for another day.
I applied a light coat of Klear,
as I’ve had some issues recently
with decals silvering and some of
the Xtracolor hadn’t come out as
glossy as I would have liked. I now
fitted the nose gear and the main
gear legs and jacks. It’s a joy to be
able to add these, as the jacks fit
positively and accurately (as does
so much of this kit), and it gave me
something to stand the kit on.
And so to the decals. The
Cartograf decal sheet looks
very nice and I really (REALLY)
appreciate that they start with
1 in the top left hand corner
and then run in numbered rows
across the sheet and down to 141
in the bottom right hand corner,
so there’s no need to go hunting

the entire sheet to find a specific
decal. They are also well spaced
out to allow easy access, and to a
large extent, the ones near to each
other on the kit are near to each
other on the sheet. This is how
to design a decal sheet, people!
I wasn’t using the individual
aircraft markings, but from looking
at pictures I knew that the Iranian
aircraft have something similar to
full US stencilling, so most of the

sheet is appropriate. I tried a few of
the underside decals first to see how
they behaved. They went on well
and so I applied most of the rest.
I appreciate that these decals
represent USAF stencils from
the early 70s, but I was building
an Iranian aircraft from the
early 80s and the pictures I have
are from the 90s and 2000s,
so I know that there are
differences (between aircraft
as well!) I tried to account
for this where possible, but
information on Iranian Islamic
Republic Phantoms is often
incomplete or contradictory.
I’m very impressed
with the kit decals; the
quality, the layout, and the
placement instructions
are as good as any I’ve

used. However, nothing’s perfect.
I did not use the formation lights,
as they are too yellow (I also hadn’t
used the plastic parts provided. It’s
a good idea, very clever and I know
the lights are slightly raised, but I
feel decals alone are sufficient). I
found a set of Eagle Strike stencils
and used them where appropriate.
The Hi-Decals markings are
incredibly thin and settled down
well. They look good but they were

also a little fragile at times; more
than one decal folded over on itself
so badly I couldn’t recover it: very
annoying, and next to impossible
to replace, but on the whole the
decals are excellent. It took a good
few days to do the decaling as
there is a lot to apply, but by the
end I was quite happy with how
it my Phantom was looking.

BACK TO THE PLASTIC
It was time to go back and fit a few
bits before the top clear coat, so I
did most of Stages 30 to 36, which
were the main wheels, gear
doors, airbrakes etc. Again
I was impressed by the
positive fit and accuracy of
these parts. It makes the
build a lot easier when you

know you can basically cut a bit off
a sprue, apply glue, offer it up, and it
will fit without any messing around.
I now fitted the outer rear
flaperons at an appropriate angle,
and when everything had set I
applied a top coat of XAFF Xtracolor
Flat Varnish, mixed with Klear,
as the finish in the pictures isn’t
really matt. With that done I could
remove the canopies, unmask them,
and hope everything was OK.
My Blu-tack rolls had kept the
cockpit pretty clean (the close
fit of the kit parts also helped),
so I added the three mirrors to
the pilot’s canopy section. The
instructions would have you
add one in the middle of the rear
canopy for the WSO, but pictures
show the Iranian aircraft with
two scabbed-on external mirrors.
Again, I don’t know if these were
fitted in the 80s timeframe I was
going for, but as the kit actually
has them in the box I fitted them
to the rear canopy section.
My only complaint here is that,
like every other Phantom I’ve
built, ZM has not represented the
heavy canopy interior framework.
I was tempted to break out one
of my Hypersonic sets (intended
for the Hasegawa kits) and make
it fit. I understand that with
cutting it can be done, but in the
end I left it as is. (Jeffery will
be producing a set for the ZM
Phantoms so sign me up for a few...)
And with it nearly being
endgame it was time to start
throwing bits at it from various
previous stages. The Total Air
Temperature (TAT) sensor, the

“THIS IS FAR AND AWAY THE


BEST PHANTOM IN 1/48 SCALE


(MAYBE ANY SCALE), AND I


REALLY HOPE TO BUILD MORE”


WWW.SAMPUBLICATIONS.COM • AUGUST 2018 • 11


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