New Zealand Listener – June 01, 2019

18 LISTENER JUNE 1 2019

Foley, Nourish now has 15 eateries in its

stable. Its big coup was snapping up Soul,

on Auckland’s Viaduct, which was sold by

restaurant veteran Judith Tabron and her

business partners.

Sigley says the group model allows them

to buy produce and goods off key suppliers,

ensuring economies of scale. If one eatery

is not doing well, it can be propped up by

one that is.

Their executive chef, Gareth Stewart – also

a judge on cooking show My Kitchen Rules –

oversees all the menus, so diners can expect

consistency of quality from the group’s

restaurants. The drawbacks? Not having the

owner on the restaurant floor or cooking

in the kitchen. “Owner-operators are more

hands on. We can’t be there so we’re more

reliant on those we employ to do a good

job,” says Sigley.

Nourish has two restaurant concepts,

Jervois Steak House – one in Auckland and

one in Queenstown – and The Crab Shack,

in Auckland and Wellington. Ultimately,

Nourish will try to take both concepts

overseas. The group may also look at setting

up restaurants in malls. “New Zealand is

pretty small,” says Sigley. “It’s getting to be

a much harder game.”

Jackie Grant heads the Hip Group and

its growing number of Auckland cafes and

restaurants such as Amano and Ortolana

in Britomart. All menus are overseen by

executive chef Jo Pearson and it has a

4ha farm in Kumeu, north of Auckland,

supplying the group’s 12 eateries, as well as

a butchery and creamery nearby.

Grant says diners are looking for a

“sensory feast” that leaves them feeling

fulfilled. “They want to experience the

delight of something new, something they

wouldn’t have made themselves, while

being welcomed in with authentic warmth.”

AT THE COALFACE

As a counterweight to the size and marketing

muscle of these large food businesses, Renee

and Damaris Coulter of Karangahape Rd

eatery Coco’s Cantina created The Realness,

a social-media concept to promote owner-

operated eateries.

It began more than five years ago and

features dozens of Auckland restaurants

and cafes, as well as ones from the rest of

the country, Australia and even Canada.

To be eligible, the eateries must be owner-

operated, have been open at least 18 months

and free of corporate deals that could restrict

how they do business.

Sarah Meikle, head of the food festival

Wellington on a Plate, says most cafes and

restaurants in the capital are independently

owned, allowing for more experimentation

EATING OUT IN NZ

1. Jessica Murphy.


2. Jackie Grant. 3.
   Sid Sahrawat.

12

“We aim to make people

realise that Māori cuisine

is more than just a

hāngi in the ground.’’