timeoutabudhabi.com April 24 – 30 2019 23
A special
Tom Aikens on his new
Abu Dhabi restaurants,
collaborating with Gary
Rhodes and why he’s
not sold on chocolate-
covered scorpions.
By Harriet Shephard
AS THE HOTTEST new hotel in town, we’re
pretty sure most of you will be well aware
of the Abu Dhabi EDITION by now.
The hipster-friendly venue at Al Bateen
Marina boasts understated glamour, an
incredible three-tier bar and club, and perhaps
most importantly, three superb restaurants.
British celebrity chef Tom Aikens is the
brains behind the Oak Room, Alba Terrace and
Market at EDITION, and we were lucky enough
to catch up with the Londoner during his latest
visit to the capital.
How did you end up working here in Abu Dhabi?
The EDITION team Àrst asked me to come and
work here a couple of years ago. We then did
a lot of research into the restaurants here
and what seems to be working. We wanted
to do something a little bit different, but also
something that would Àt with the clientele.
It was important to me that all three
restaurants offered something very different,
and had different price points, too.
Oak Room has a very different vibe to the other
steakhouses here doesn’t it?
It’s a premium restaurant but we didn’t want
it to be Àne dining. So we decided to call it a
British rock’n’ roll steakhouse, just to keep
it cool and funky. Playing ’60s and ’70s pop
music kind of gives it an informal feel, too.
The majority of the steak restaurants here
serve wagyu beef. There’s nothing wrong with
that but we wanted to do something different.
So we have wagyu but we also have Japanese,
Irish, Spanish and American beef. We use
some classic British Áavours, too, dishes like
scallops with a mango chutney piccalilli and
oysters with a celery jelly.
“Out of all
the menus,
the most
research
went into
the one at
Market”
Why did you decide to hire a meat sommelier?
We wanted someone who was very
knowledgeable but also expressive and
creative as a chef. So that’s why we have
Charlie Grainger. He’s able to give guests a
bit of background on the beef they are eating,
explaining how it’s cut and what it tastes like.
I think that really sets the tone for a meal at
Oak Room nicely. He’s got the character and
personality for it as well.
How did you come up with the menu at Market?
People tend to think that healthy food is
boring, bland and tasteless, so I’ve tried to
make sure that it all looks great and tastes
amazing. I wanted to do a whole menu without
using any cream or butter, and for a chef who
has been using those ingredients throughout
his whole career, it was a big ask. But I just
wanted to see if I could do it, and I did. Out of
all the menus, the most research went into
the one at Market. Dishes like the poke bowls
just have so many ingredients in them. It was
a lot of fun, though, and I really enjoyed it.
And Alba Terrace is Mediterranean food?
Yes, Alba has a really nice and balanced menu
of salads, Àsh, meat, pasta and risottos. It’s a
really peaceful and informal place to eat. All
the restaurants are.
What do you think of the hotel itself?
I love the hotel. I saw it for the Àrst time three
years ago when it was just a concrete shell, so
I’ve really seen it grow. The style of the service
is very approachable and easy going, and
some of the other hotels here are so formal.
It’s a happy, friendly environment and the
lobby has a natural warmth to it.
Is working in Abu Dhabi very different to Dubai?
It has a slower pace, which I like, and it’s
more conservative. There’s such a huge
choice of restaurants in Dubai, so the
customers are perhaps more demanding
and a bit more Àckle.
Are you friends with any of the other British chefs
who work out here?
I see Jason Atherton a lot and I want to try and
do something with Gary Rhodes. He’s one of
the iconic British chefs and he was one of the
Àrst to come out to the Middle East.
Have you had chance to do any sightseeing here?
A bit, but my schedules are always busy so
it’s difÀcult. But I’ve been to the Louvre and
on a desert safari. It’s nice to do these kind of
things, and I always try to get out one evening.
You were the youngest chef to get two Michelin
stars, are you still quite ambitious?
Yes I’d say that I’ve still got the Àre. I like
travelling and going to other countries. That
way you get to meet interesting people, try
different foods and experience other cultures.
It can be quite tiring but there are far worse
things to complain about.
Where have you been recently?
I went to Mexico for the Àrst time recently and
as a chef I think it’s one of the best places to
go because the food is amazing. The produce
is incredible with such fresh limes and mind-
blowing avocados. The markets in Mexico
City were hilarious. Some of the Àsh was
refrigerated but all the meat was out on slabs
in the sunshine. There was also a vast array of
cockroaches, spiders and scorpions, all fried
or covered in chocolate. But I just couldn’t
bring myself to try one.
O The Abu Dhabi EDITION, Al Bateen Marina
(02 208 0000).
edition
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