timeoutabudhabi.com April 24 – 30 2019 23A special
Tom Aikens on his new
Abu Dhabi restaurants,
collaborating with Gary
Rhodes and why he’s
not sold on chocolate-
covered scorpions.
By Harriet Shephard
AS THE HOTTEST new hotel in town, we’re
pretty sure most of you will be well awareof the Abu Dhabi EDITION by now.
The hipster-friendly venue at Al BateenMarina boasts understated glamour, an
incredible three-tier bar and club, and perhapsmost importantly, three superb restaurants.
British celebrity chef Tom Aikens is the
brains behind the Oak Room, Alba Terrace andMarket at EDITION, and we were lucky enough
to catch up with the Londoner during his latestvisit to the capital.
How did you end up working here in Abu Dhabi?
The EDITION team Àrst asked me to come and
work here a couple of years ago. We then dida lot of research into the restaurants here
and what seems to be working. We wantedto do something a little bit different, but also
something that would Àt with the clientele.It was important to me that all three
restaurants offered something very different,
and had different price points, too.Oak Room has a very different vibe to the other
steakhouses here doesn’t it?
It’s a premium restaurant but we didn’t wantit to be Àne dining. So we decided to call it a
British rock’n’ roll steakhouse, just to keep
it cool and funky. Playing ’60s and ’70s popmusic kind of gives it an informal feel, too.
The majority of the steak restaurants hereserve wagyu beef. There’s nothing wrong with
that but we wanted to do something different.So we have wagyu but we also have Japanese,
Irish, Spanish and American beef. We use
some classic British Áavours, too, dishes likescallops with a mango chutney piccalilli and
oysters with a celery jelly.“Out of all
the menus,
the most
research
went into
the one at
Market”
Why did you decide to hire a meat sommelier?
We wanted someone who was veryknowledgeable but also expressive and
creative as a chef. So that’s why we haveCharlie Grainger. He’s able to give guests a
bit of background on the beef they are eating,
explaining how it’s cut and what it tastes like.I think that really sets the tone for a meal at
Oak Room nicely. He’s got the character andpersonality for it as well.
How did you come up with the menu at Market?
People tend to think that healthy food is
boring, bland and tasteless, so I’ve tried tomake sure that it all looks great and tastes
amazing. I wanted to do a whole menu withoutusing any cream or butter, and for a chef who
has been using those ingredients throughouthis whole career, it was a big ask. But I just
wanted to see if I could do it, and I did. Out of
all the menus, the most research went intothe one at Market. Dishes like the poke bowls
just have so many ingredients in them. It wasa lot of fun, though, and I really enjoyed it.
And Alba Terrace is Mediterranean food?
Yes, Alba has a really nice and balanced menu
of salads, Àsh, meat, pasta and risottos. It’s areally peaceful and informal place to eat. All
the restaurants are.What do you think of the hotel itself?
I love the hotel. I saw it for the Àrst time three
years ago when it was just a concrete shell, so
I’ve really seen it grow. The style of the serviceis very approachable and easy going, and
some of the other hotels here are so formal.It’s a happy, friendly environment and the
lobby has a natural warmth to it.
Is working in Abu Dhabi very different to Dubai?
It has a slower pace, which I like, and it’smore conservative. There’s such a huge
choice of restaurants in Dubai, so thecustomers are perhaps more demanding
and a bit more Àckle.
Are you friends with any of the other British chefs
who work out here?I see Jason Atherton a lot and I want to try and
do something with Gary Rhodes. He’s one ofthe iconic British chefs and he was one of the
Àrst to come out to the Middle East.
Have you had chance to do any sightseeing here?
A bit, but my schedules are always busy soit’s difÀcult. But I’ve been to the Louvre and
on a desert safari. It’s nice to do these kind ofthings, and I always try to get out one evening.
You were the youngest chef to get two Michelin
stars, are you still quite ambitious?
Yes I’d say that I’ve still got the Àre. I liketravelling and going to other countries. That
way you get to meet interesting people, trydifferent foods and experience other cultures.
It can be quite tiring but there are far worse
things to complain about.Where have you been recently?
I went to Mexico for the Àrst time recently and
as a chef I think it’s one of the best places togo because the food is amazing. The produce
is incredible with such fresh limes and mind-
blowing avocados. The markets in MexicoCity were hilarious. Some of the Àsh was
refrigerated but all the meat was out on slabsin the sunshine. There was also a vast array of
cockroaches, spiders and scorpions, all friedor covered in chocolate. But I just couldn’t
bring myself to try one.
O The Abu Dhabi EDITION, Al Bateen Marina
(02 208 0000).edition
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