PHOTOGRAPHY:^ NICKWILSONSTART
Below: Alice Potts at the Open Cell biotech workspace in Shepherd’s Bush. Her work harnesses the properties of crystalised human sweatA quick glance into Alice Potts’ studio reveals
a collection of fashion accessories featuring a
vibrant colour palette and an unusual decorative
feature: crystallised human perspiration.
Potts, 26, is one of six residents at Open Cell, a
biotech workspace in Shepherd’s Bush, London,
which is made of shipping containers and provides
lab space for startups and creatives who bring
together science and fashion. A designer and
materials researcher, she was inspired to work
with bodily fluids during a post-gym session, when
she noticed the white crystals that had formed
across her top. “I was like, ‘Oh my god – could
you imagine if this was allowed to grow longer,
instead of rapidly dehydrating?’” she says.
Her current sweat-collecting regime involves
working with athletes. Each individual is given an
item of clothing to exercise and sweat in. Once the
sweat becomes embedded in the material, Potts
collects any extra liquid using microfibre towels,
as well as asking participants to scrape it from
clothing and wring it out into a container. “You can
sweat a pint a day from your feet – that’s normal,”
Potts explains. She then starts her crystallisation
process and re-applies the wrung-out perspiration
to the still-sweaty garments, where the similarity
in molecular structure allows the crystals to form.
The designer is now exploring how different
applications of sweat can manipulate textiles
beyond mere aesthetics – for example, by
affecting a fabric’s flexibility or rigidity. As a former
tennis player, she is particularly interested in
sportswear innovation. “You could have materials
that are stiff, and then when you sweat, it becomes
more flexible, which allows greater movement
while supporting the body,” she says.
Visualising sweat could also act as a handy
biomarker for the wearer. “You could indicate
your health at that point – if you’re dehydrated,
what your diet is like, or if your body is high or
Sweat shops
are the future
of fashion
Put away the
deodorant –
Alice potts is
an artist
exploring ways
to make human
perspiration
beautifullow in sodium,” Potts says. She is currently
working with personal trainer Francesco Zen to
explore how combining the consumption of food
at specific times with exercise can affect the
volume of sweat that the body secretes.
Although Potts’ practice stresses individualism,
her goal is to strip down gender, race and diet
divides by focusing on a bodily function that unites
us all: “No matter where you come from or who
you are, we all sweat. It’s something every person
can relate to.” Arnelle Paterson alicepotts.com